21 May 2008

Chelan Beach 'N and XC Flight

16-18 May 2008

C.J. and I went over to Chelan a day early for the annual Beach 'N. After setting up our condo tent at Beebe Bridge campground (which still had the off-season half-price senior rate), we headed up the Butte after a stop to visit with Lori, Kelly, Brian and Darren. Conditions were really light but Tom Johns and Joe Ullman were soaring their hang gliders high above. No other paragliders were on launch or in the air. While I was getting ready to go, Tom landed and reported that lift was plentiful, smooth, and strong at times. I launched between the rocks, had no trouble climbing above the towers and headed west across the saddle to the next bump to get out of the traffic. Tom had reported getting to 7300 ft but I couldn't find the same elevator and got to only 6600 feet. C.J. landed after 45 minutes or so, and I decided that if I could get to 7000 I would try going cross-country at least to WalMart and maybe to the airport, having never tried going north on a paraglider (also, the McNeil Canyon road was closed for construction). As the afternoon progressed the thermal strength and height decreased so I had no chance of reaching 7000 but I took the best climb I had (to about 6200 ft) and glided north. There was not a beep from my vario as I passed over the river and the city of Chelan. I sailed past WalMart and onto the slopes of Deer Mtn where I started climbing again slowly. Tryg's, Paul's and Dave's properties slowly sank below me and I began feeling more confident of reaching at least the airport. Heading north again I stopped at the next summits to regain lost altitude each time finding less to work with. Finally, I was reduced to flying barely above the rim of the Apple Acres Road canyon and continuing across Antoine Creek to the hills south of Wells Dam. By then it was after 1700 and there was no sustainable lift so I turned back and landed in a large field closer to the road for a total distance of almost 11 miles. C.J. was there before I finished packing up having walked back up to Tom and Lori's for the Trooper.


A screen capture of my flight log on Google Earth




















Later we went back to Lakeside Park then up to Tom and Lori's again to let them know where I had gotten to, then we went back to camp and prepared supper. Greg Peterson and his girlfriend Shaylin camped next to us and we decided to drive up together on Saturday.


We got to Lakeside shortly after 0830 after a quick stop to get a block of ice at Safeway and signed up for the spot landing contest. After loading Greg's hang glider we headed up. Today there were some more paraglider pilots. Meredyth was there and she reported having made almost the same flight I had yesterday but a couple of hours earlier. Conditions were light again but this time it wasn't soarable and I managed to get in four flights, some with Shaylin as driver and once with Rog and Rebeckah. The first two flights were smooth and I was able to overfly the Green Monster and hug the north spine to fly out over Lone Pine. My third flight was in less friendly air and I took a couple of fairly big whacks crossing the ridge above the saddle. On my fourth flight I crossed to the far side of the "gauntlet" and worked some lift off that ridge before coming in from west of the park. At the end of the day, both Tom and I had tied for first place with neither of us hitting the bulls eye but averaging the white ring on each landing. Kevin White on his PG (once on his tandem with Amy, Rob's girlfriend) was close behind with a bullseye and some blue ring landings.


Instead of a barbecue, Lori ordered pizza from Company Creek and Mystic Pizza; it was pretty expensive but hot and tasty - and much easier. By 2100 we were ready to head back to camp and get some rest - four flights in a day, even with a paraglider, was pretty tiring.


Sunday we spent the morning on the Butte but no paragliders flew and, after the Race to the Beach, Tom didn't fly anymore either. I replaced most of the missing wind streamers on and around the launches then drove back down. By 1300 I had packed up camp and was ready to head home. Lori didn't wait to hand out the prizes until 1500, so, after getting my first place tie prize of two nights at the Best Western (Tom took the dinner for two at Campbells) and C.J. picking up a $25 gift certificate for the Hungry Belly Deli, we started early for home. A lack of traffic congestion put us in North Bend by 1730. It looked like flying conditions might have been good on the west side of the mountains as well as in Chelan.

21 April 2008

Road Trip - OK, FL, NC, et al., 2008



12 March-20 April 2008


C.J. and I wanted to be at the USHPA Board Meeting in Colorado Springs for the awards banquet where Wally would receive his Instructor of the Year award, plus we needed to visit long-neglected family members - C.J.' s mom and brother Rob in Florida, my brother and family near Indianapolis, and C.J's sister Mary and family near Chicago. In addition, if we were going that far, there was the Wills Wing 35th Anniversary Celebration at Wallaby Ranch in Florida so we might as well take our flying gear. We planned on camping once we got south of Colorado not yet being aware that this was an exceptionally cold spring. It all worked out: we had great visits with our families, some flying, and we got to reconnect with friends whom we had not seen for years.
Here's a GoogleMap of our route:
12 Mar Wednesday –C.J. and I left NB with a fully loaded Outback about 0730, stopped in Yakima/Union Gap for gas, more gas in Idaho just before Boise. We stopped for the night in Twin Falls and picked up bread and rotisserie chicken at Costco for dinner.
13 Mar, Thursday – We drove over Sweetzer Pass after a rainy start from Twin Falls, got gas at Costco in Ogden (some difficulty finding without being able to use the map on the computer when the battery got jostled loose. Climbing out of Utah onto the high plains of S Wyo, the temp continued to drop. There was light snow blowing across the road. We stopped in Laramie and bought some salad makings and a pizza for dinner.
14 Mar Friday – We filled up with gas at Loaf ‘n Jug in Laramie and then drove down SR 287 in sunny, cold weather to Fort Collins (scenic) and south through Denver. We hit snow just outside of Colorado Springs (!) and checked in to the Doubletree World Arena. We met up with Ginny and Wally after attending a part of the USHPA general session. Later we went to the USHPA HQ building for the social.
15 Mar Saturday – C.J. and I attended the Site Committee meeting which Jon James chaired, then C.J. had a lunch meeting with Martin and Greg Gillam, the art director (?). Later C.J. went to the Publications Comm mtg until Ginny was ready to go on a hike. We drove out to the Cheyenne Mtn Zoo trying to find the Seven Falls scenic drive. Eventually we did find it but decided to pass on the $8.95/person entry fee. We took a hike up a trail above Broadmoor to another scenic road high up on the shoulder of the mountain. There was a little snow on the trail but the sky was pretty clear and at one point we could see across to the Garden of the Gods. We got back to the hotel around 1730 and got ready for the Awards Banquet where Wally got his PG Instructor of the Year. Kim and Mike Galvin, Sean ___, and Alice Engelhardt and Kevin were also at our table along with Dennis Pagen. It was snowing as we partied but had tapered off by the time we headed home.
16 Mar Sunday – We didn’t get going until almost 1100 what with breakfast and saying goodbye to everyone. We stopped for gas in Pueblo then it got cold and foggy as we drove south and over Raton Pass. We had thought we would be able to camp, but we stopped in Raton to pick up a Motel 6 guide and called for reservations in Amarillo when we realized that it was going to be too cold. The motel was pretty basic but better than camping, and we bought another chicken this time from Wal-Mart for dinner.
17 Mar Monday – We bought gas at Wal-Mart and headed on to Walters with detours but found Jim and Cathy’s 80 acres with no trouble. We got the house tour and had a pizza dinner. There were severe thunderstorms nearby but none came within a few miles of the house, but we were glad to have the car with its glider in Jim’s garage.
18 Mar Tuesday – The weather continued cold and rainy so we went to Ft. Sill, near Lawton, and toured the museum in the original fort area. Then we stopped in the PX food court for lunch and bought groceries at the commissary all with Jim and Cathy.
19 Mar Wednesday – C.J. had called Jayne DePalfilis and arranged to meet for lunch halfway to Okla City. We had a good meal at Jakes Rib in Chickasha (CHIK uh shay, then dessert at a Braums ice cream place. We bought gas before heading back and stopped in Lawton to transfer some money from the NEA account into our B of A checking account. When we got back to the Reynolds, Jim was just putting away his trike and the wind was dying. We tried running our paragliders off the little training hill but barely got them inflated. We went to a truck stop in Lawton for dinner with Jim and Cathy. C.J. was able to show them our Vietnam 2005 photos from her Mac and then copied them to Jim’s computer.
20 Mar Thursday – We left with Jim and Cathy in caravan around 0900 heading for Mt. Buffalo. We stopped briefly in Altus for a bathroom break. At the Mt. Buffalo LZ, we talked with Ron who had completed his foundation of a hang glider-shaped cabin, then helped Jim dig three perc holes for his septic system. Later we drove up to launch with Ron and Dave Morton. The wind was too strong so we walked over to Dave’s cabin and hung out a while. After returning to the LZ we went to dinner in Talihina at Pam’s. We set up our tent for the first time this trip in the LZ by full moonlight.
21 Mar Fri – C.J. and I had cold breakfast in the LZ, broke camp and met Jim and Cathy in Talihina for the drive to Heavener. We drove on the Talimena Scenic Drive stopping at several vista points including the one for Panorama launch (with the huge FS clear cut LZ below). Since the wind was strong again we did not try to rush up to Heavener launch (and, we had heard that the road was closed, anyway). Instead we went to Runestone State Park to see the supposed Viking-era boundary marker, then we had lunch next to the upper parking lot. Jim and Cathy took off for home around 1300 while we hiked up the road to where we thought the launch would be. Instead, we found some Baptists putting up a cross with red Christmas lights, and talked with Lester, a local landowner and caretaker. He pointed us farther up the road and we finally found the good launch. The wind was pretty good and, if we could have driven up, and if there had been other local pilots, we might have flown. We retraced our route to the Talimena Drive and Winding Stair CG (after a short stop at a USFS visitor center). There was no water and we were also able to use our Golden Age card so camping only cost $2.50. We prepared a chef’s salad with the leftover chicken then drove all the way back to Panorama Vista for the sunset.
22 Mar Sat – It wasn’t really cold so we took time to prepare oatmeal in the frying pan before heading east on the Talimena Drive. After a couple of vista/visitor center stops, we reached Mena and headed north to Mt. Magazine. We drove up and stopped in the visitor center to see how to register to hang glide, then continued on to the launch where we had lunch. After a stop at the lodge, we tried a radio call to Mt. Nebo and Mark Stump answered as he was climbing over 3000 feet. We headed there right away, got directions from Dardanelle via radio, stopped at the LZ, then headed up. We registered at the visitor center and C.J. set up her Falcon and flew to the Hell’s Kitchen LZ. I went down and John Jenkins volunteered to go with me to help find the LZ and invited us to spend the night camped in his yard. John and Roxy cooked up chicken over a woodfire and served bunches of leftovers from the BBQ on the previous night. Mark Stump and his wife Cherie (?) joined us after his 40 mile flight to beyond Booneville. Dan “Flair” O’Hara and Doug Johnson from Wisconsin also dropped by. At some point today or yesterday I noticed that the rear tires were pretty bald and we would have to replace them before we went much farther.
23 Mar Sun – We had breakfast with John and Roxy in his 12x20 ft cabin and then stopped at Roxy’s house to get directions to the nearest Costco (in Memphis). Then we went back up the winding road to the top of Mt. Nebo to check out the south and east launches with John and Roxy. Soon afterward we were on our way south on a scenic road towards Hot Springs and Hot Springs NP. We stopped at the remains of an old CCC camp then drove on to Hot Springs where we toured the old Fordyce Bathhouse which is now the NP visitor center. Then we checked in to the Gulpha Gorge (NP) campground ($5) and went back to drive the scenic road to the top of the hill above Hot Springs. Near the north end of the drive we parked and hiked the 0.7 mi down to Goat Rock. Then we went back to camp and asked the CG hosts about a place to eat. They suggested driving south of the city center several miles to the shopping and eating area. We checked out a Ryan’s there, then chose to splurge on an Olive Garden dinner. We left with a box of leftover tortelloni and stopped at WalMart to check on the prices of tires. The night was a bit cold (below freezing by morning) but we were not uncomfortable.
24 Mar Mon – It was too cold to stick around for breakfast but we were gone by 0800. There was not much traffic as we headed east and we didn’t stop for breakfast until it warmed up a bit. After that we headed to Memphis, crossing the Mississippi, and stopping at Costco to the SE of the city. It took about 2 hours to get tires installed while we shopped at Costco and window shopped at Sportsman’s Warehouse and Michaels. After a lunch at the side of the road, we drove through Huntsville where we ran into some traffic as we passed the NASA Space Center with its old rockets sticking up into the sky. We picked up a footlong sandwich at Subway just outside the city and continued along through the TVA facilities. It was dark and we were in the eastern time zone by the time we reached Georgia and climbed Lookout Mountain to spend the night with Claire Vassort and Eric (Graper).
25 Mar Tuesday – After a delicious omelet breakfast, we all went out to Cloudland Canyon State Park and hiked down the trail and stairs to the stream and waterfalls at the bottom. It had been cold enough that there were icicles on some of the wet walls. Then we went over to the launch at Lookout to see the new rounded concrete ramp. It definitely looked challenging to get a PG off safely/easily. The wind was forecast to be SW and 10-20 mph so and it was sort of doing that so flying was out. We went down to the LZ where Eric had agreed to help Ron skin and butcher a road-killed deer. We spent most of the rest of the day watching and learning the secrets of venison preparation. We had lunch in between gutting and skinning on the deck at the community center at the LZ. Later in the day we went to the training hill and walked around in the woods a bit. Back at Claire’s house we had shepherd’s pie for dinner and I got caught up on this journal.
26 Mar Wed – We got a late start after breakfast with Claire and Eric – around 11:15. The weather was already warmer than it had gotten the day before and by the time we reached Atlanta on I-75, I was running the air conditioner. The temp on the car thermometer got up to 73 deg or so. We stopped to get a few gallons of gas because we were getting low and then filled it up with considerably cheaper gas at the Kennasaw Costco just N of Atlanta. We also had a traditional Costco lunch there as well. C.J. checked the AAA campbook and noted that campsites were expensive. Meanwhile the billboards were advertising record low rates for the cheap motels. I called Greg McNamee at Graybird in Dunellon, FL, to see if he was towing PG and he indicated that he did, but mainly on the weekends. Since there was no reason to push on to Orlando (or Dunellon), around 1830 we pulled into the Knights Inn in Lenox, a little town in S. GA. After checking in, we drove to the center of the town (which consisted of a few convenience stores and a bunch of churches) and had a spaghetti dinner in a park – the first time we had actually cooked a dinner. The sunset was a red ball reminiscent of the smoky summer in Hungary The motel is supposed to have wireless but neither of us has been able to get online or pickup email so far. Okay it started to work after I went to the office.
3/272008 Thursday – We didn’t make a real early start since the distance was not great. The Florida Welcome Station had some potentially useful stuff. We got off I-75 at Ocala and got gas, had lunch behind a BofA and cashed a $50 travelers check. It was a pretty congested drive down as far as Leesburg then we were in familiar territory although it was more built up than it had been. We pulled into Wallaby and set up camp. C.J. got an aerotow – first in a couple of years – late in the day. We had dinner with the whole group – a Brazilian BBQ – in the expanded pole barn.
3/28/2008 Friday – We had breakfast out by our tent rather than eat another big Wallaby meal. I picked up email on the wireless system (very slow) and hung out in the shade reading part of the time. I went over to the flight line in time to help C.J. get ready to fly at about 1330. She had a flight of about 25 min but her landing was not very good. I had already had PB&J for lunch so C.J. ate the Wallaby lunch. We also had the smoked turkey dinner later. Wills Wing had brought in Chris Wills and his mom Maralys, and Chris gave a narrated presentation on the very early days of hang gliding as he remembered it. Maralys also gave a short talk about the early days of Wills Wing.
3/29/08 Saturday – We had raisin bran again then went out to buy more milk, bread, cereal and ice at Publix. We got back during the 1000 Wallaby breakfast and caught Linda Salamone to buy a Women’s World Team T-shirt. We moved C.J.’s Falcon to the flight line so she would be ready to go when the conditions were right. It seems a bit cloudy and breezy today as I write this at 1130. [Later} The flight line was moved to the next strip to the south so we had to move C.J.’s glider over there. We caught Rob and Trish and bought a WW Anniversary T-shirt – the last medium left. C.J. got a short flight in higher winds than the day before and had a good landing. Aaron adjusted her hang point forward a half-inch to give more speed at trim. Flying was called off before dark as the sea breeze moved in and I “ground flew” the Falcon back to the tie-down just missing being hit by the glider ahead of me flipping over (winds were definitely increasing). By 1830 or so lots of people were hanging out by the pole barn, drinking beer, munching on popcorn and waiting for the WW-sponsored BBQ to begin. Robb the margarita man was there with his trailer-mounted machine, but he was dispensing hot corn at the moment. The meal was great and we sat with a Canadian from Salt Spring Island who said that the August fly-in was still on. After the really long line got through being served, Rob made some remarks then played a DVD with photos from the past 35 years of Wills Wing gliders and people. A live band, the Believers, played in the pole barn later and Robb started passing out frozen margaritas. We lasted through one dance and some listening but then headed to bed before the party began to wind down. We still didn’t have much difficulty getting to sleep.
30 March 2008 Sunday – We had cold cereal again and cleaned up, stuffed the sleeping bags and rolled the pads then went over to hang out with the pilots while the tugs were finishing up tandems, students, and those who just wanted to fly early. Weather looked a little iffy and people were talking about rain and not flying so we packed up the tent which had dried out nicely in the wind and sun. The wind continued to gust and no towing was done; the WW crew began to pack up their gliders and a general teardown and exodus began. We were out of there by 1400 and took SR 33 north past Quest, then SR 19 through the Ocala National Forest (with a stop in Eustice for lunch at a park on the lake) arriving just before 1700 at the Microtel Inn and Suites in Palm Coast. Amazingly the clerk honored our $49 coupon (from the Florida Welcome Center) and we got the best room we’ve had so far on this trip. Then we went over to meet Mom F and Rob for dinner at the Fisherman’s Net in Flagler Beach (I tried the Caribbean Jerk mahi mahi and C.J. had a huge serving of linguini with her scallops parmesan). Back at the Microtel, we checked email and caught up on correspondence.
31 March Monday – We didn’t get up until 0740 and didn’t get headed over to meet Rob for breakfast until after 0830. We ate just north of Flagler at the Java Joint right across the highway from the beach with pounding surf and strong north wind. Then we walked a mile or so north on the sand to Beverly Beach campground and back (in a rain shower on the way back). Mom F was still not up when we got back to the house so we spent an hour or so wandering around the outside of the house talking with Rob. Then back to the motel. We hung out until 1600 or so when we went back to the house and visited for a while before going to the Outback for dinner. Back at the house we finished a load of laundry and got it partially dried before bringing it back to the motel to spread out around the room to dry.
1 April 1, 2008 Tuesday – Rob had to take Mom F to the Mayo Clinic in Jacksonville for a CAT scan and a GP visit so we had the motel’s continental breakfast. Later I took the car in for an oil change (and replaced the gear oil in the rear differential) and bought some windshield washer fluid and a squeegee. I had called Tropical Kayaks to see about renting a boat to paddle around the Palm Coast area so we went over to the marina around 1130 and signed out an open, plastic tandem. After paddling a short distance up the canal network to the west and around “Manatee Cove” (which was surrounded by a non-operating golf course) we came back to the Intracoastal Waterway and paddled south a mile or so under the toll bridge. We turned west up a brown-water creek and made our way upstream mostly under a canopy of jungly vegetation. We even had to push through a downed tree and under a couple of bridges. Just before reaching the end, at another pond surrounded by a graded clearcut, I briefly spotted a river otter. In the pond we saw a major swirl of water that startled us and there were fish jumping, some skipping across the surface. All the action made sense when we spotted a 7-8 ft alligator partially out of the water on one sandy bank. As we paddled by, he slowly slid into the water until all we could see was his eyes. We moved on a ways then hauled the kayak out of the water and took a path into the woods upstream a bit for lunch. On the return trip we saw the same ‘gator on the bank again, and then we spotted a second one which surged quickly into the water and made that same sort of water swirl we had noted earlier. Even though it was still pretty early, we were tired and decided to return the kayak rather than head on farther to another stream. It was quicker to paddle downstream and the wind had picked up from the south so it was pretty fast paddling on the Intracoastal Waterway as well. Instead of heading “home” we drove north along Palm Harbor Pkwy to Old Kings Rd and on to Princess Place, a large county-operated nature reserve. We hiked on a boardwalk over the Hominy Branch, checked out the kayak launch ramp, viewed the Matanzas River, and walked around the Adirondack-style lodge that had been the home of the Russian prince and his American wife-princess. We got back around 1830 and showered. Rob called around 1900 and picked us up for dinner at Woody’s, a BBQ place. We had the special which was two orders of baby-back ribs for $23. Good grub!
2 April, 2008 Wednesday – We spent the day with Rob and Mom F. I took everything out of the car and vacuumed the accumulated sand out We showed some of our photos from our trips, and our track from yesterday’s kayak trip on Google Earth. Late in the day we went over to Winn Dixie and bought groceries for supper and had a good meal of London Broil with a green salad and potato salad, with ice cream and Smuckers cherries for dessert. We got back to the motel around 2130 and did some packing. We’re hoping to meet Rob for breakfast but in any case we’ll be hitting the road for Atlanta Paragliding.
3 April 2008 Thursday – Rob didn’t call at 0730 so C.J. called him around 0800, worried than something had happened. Rob had just overslept. We packed up and met him at the same breakfast place N of Flagler Beach, the Java Joint, for breakfast. After a bunch of eggs and good whole wheat toast we hit the road (around 0950) through the backdoor across Florida to Lake City and I-75. We made a couple of pit stops (including a scammy operation selling “$1 bags of oranges” which turned out to consist of two oranges, while displaying ¼ bu and ½ bu bags. We bought a five lb bag of tangerines for $6.95 anyway) and had lunch, we picked up some coupons at the Georgia welcome center and got a DQ blizzard along the way. At Macon we got off I-75 and headed N on SR 129 getting gas at Gray then driving through Eatonton along the “Antebellum Trail”. We pulled into Madison just before 1800 and used a coupon to reduce the already low price at a Red Roof Inn. For dinner, we went to Ingles (after finding that Wal Mart was out of stock) for a rotisserie chicken and some Amish-style (?) cole slaw and other stuff. We hadn’t been able to reach Luis by phone all day so maybe we can catch up with him tomorrow.
4 April 5, 2008 Saturday – We had a couple of disappointments with Red Roof Inn – no wireless and most of the “hot breakfast” (sausage and gravy and waffles) was gone by the time we got down to the lobby. But we soldiered on bravely and spent the rest of the morning touring the antebellum houses of Madison using a walking tour guide from the Madison Chamber of Commerce welcome center. Then we moved on to Watkinsville to see the olde tavern and the covered bridge. We kept trying to contact Luis but he did not answer or respond to C.J.’s message so we continued to drive north. We made a stop in Commerce at the Lodge Cast Iron Factory store to buy a small Dutch oven on sale, then drove north into the national forest. It started to rain hard as we went through Tallulah Falls SP and C.J. called Paula to ask if we could start our visit early “tonight”. Getting an affirmative, we headed up into North Carolina and the Great Smokies Visitors Center and then down into Asheville. Stephen gave good directions and we found their beautiful condo in the Beaver Run gated community with no problem. After visiting for a while we went out to dinner at Bellagio ___ where C.J. and I had gyro platters with way too much food.
5 April, 2008 Saturday – We were up a bit later than usual (Paula has some problems with sleep and getting up early) and had oatmeal. Then Stephen and Paula headed off to the HD movie of NY Met Opera’s La Boheme in Greenville. We set out to explore a little of the Asheville area in intermittent rain and drizzle. First we got some cheap gas, then stopped at AAA to load up on maps, and finally got the rear window wiper replaced at Prestige Subaru. From there it was just a short distance to the Folk Art Center on the Blue Ridge Pkwy. We toured the exhibits and the shop then headed downtown for lunch. [Luis finally called as we were leaving the Folk Art Center and said he was really disappointed that we didn’t stop to visit – apparently C.J. should have used a different phone number…] We got scared off by all the “Hot Hot” advertising at Salsa’s and ended up going to the Grove Arcade and getting dessert first at Kamm’s Frozen Custard. Then we found Ali Baba’s, an Egyptian pay-by–the-pound restaurant and had an interesting lunch of falafel, tabouleh, cucumber in yogurt, eggplant cooked with tomatoes and garlic, pita bread, and more. Afterward we walked around the block past St. Lawrence Basilica and the city center and then to a BofA ATM to get some cash. We got the car out of the parking lot and drove to the Biltmore Village where there were lots of shops to look in to. By 1700 or we were pretty toured out so we headed back to Paula’s with stops at various drugstores to find C.J. some face cream. In Walgreens we ran into Bob Hunt, a local hang glider, with whom we exchanged phone numbers in case there might ever be good weather again. Back at the house we relaxed for a while waiting for Stephen and Paula who weren’t due back until 1930. We had pizza at home for dinner and talked and watched the semi-finals of the NCAA Final Four games.
6 April 2008 Sunday – We got a late start and had brunch at Paula’s sister’s (Bobbie) condo just at the base of the hill. Her house is decorated with art and clothing from her travels to SA, CA, and Cuba. I took some time to open the car up so that the seat would dry in the warmer and partly sunny weather. Later we drove to Mars Hill for a performance by the Bailey Mountain Cloggers. It was less traditional and more eclectic than we had expected. Back at home it was warm enough so that we were able to have a dinner of cold cuts, leftovers and salads on the deck. C.J. showed her pictures of our trip so far and some of the Utah trip on her computer, then we went down to Merrimon Ave to get ice cream at The Hop. Stephen and I discussed possible routes to Carnesville since C.J. had contacted Luis and pretty much decided to head his way first. We may go from there to Lookout and then up to Bubba’s depending on the weather. She says that we should be leaving for Indianapolis by Friday.
7 April 2008 Monday – We had breakfast with Paula and Stephen, said goodbye and headed south by the scenic Route 11, Cherokee Foothills Drive. We drove up a steep, winding road to Caesar’s Head State Park at 3300 ft and visited the overlook and went through the Devil’s Kitchen lemon squeezer. On the way down we stopped at a rocky slab which looked like a great launch (without a great LZ within PG reach). We also stopped at the Table Rock SP visitor center and had lunch at a roadside/creekside picnic area. We got to Atlanta Paragliding (info@atlantaparagliding.com) by 1500 and chatted with Luis until the wind died down and then we did a couple of stationery winch tows. On my first tow I had trouble getting off the ground as I was drifting off to the left. When I finally got on line, I towed to 700-800 ft and released. I found a little lift but five minutes later I was on the ground. C.J. insisted I go again and this time I was able to find good lift and managed to climb to over 2000 ft agl under scattered cumulus. I flew around the borders of the field and thermaled with a gaggle of turkey vultures for a total of about 40 minutes. C.J. had 3 tows but on the last one she dropped her wing into a fresh cowpie and we had to spend a long time trying to clean it up. Luis led us to his house and he, Marcos and Sonia and we had soup and salad for dinner with strawberries and cream for dessert.
8 April 2008 Tuesday – We got a leisurely start and got out to the Atlanta Paragliding Training Center around 1030. Luis was instructing Jay and Kim Browder (jaybrowder@hotmail.com) in slope launching way out in the field and Marcos was kiting up onto the truck. When they finished up we went back to the shop and then out to lunch at a local eatery (meatloaf, slaw and cornbread and tea sweet enough to float a spoon). After lunch we went back to the shop and C.J. checked out the Gradient Comet harness and decided to order one. She also got a new (used) glider bag from a pile of old ones Luis had under the table. Even though it was 1545 we decided to take off and head towards Bubba’s. We didn’t have to go more than a few miles before we were in sun. We took I-85 to SR 221 to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Just a short distance up the pkwy we stopped for the night (around 1930) at a NPS campground near Linville Falls. Dinner was easy – leftover chicken reincarnated as sandwiches. Another camper gave us some good wood so we had a campfire which helped keep off the chill after the sun went down. Actually it wasn’t too cold for 3500 ft way up north…
9 April 2008 Wednesday – The tent was dry when we got up around 0730 so we packed up and drove down to the visitor center (which was closed) and did a short hike out to an overlook above the Linville River and falls where we had yogurt and granola. Then we drove up the Blue Ridge Pkwy stopping at some overlooks (Grandfather Mtn viewpoint, for one) and the Cone Manor Arts and Crafts Center. The Pkwy was closed N of the Boone exit but that was okay because we were getting off there anyway. C.J. called Bubba and he said conditions looked good for Tater so we met him at the base. We loaded our gear into Bubba’s truck and checked out the LZ’s then went up the hill where the conditions were just about perfect – first flyable day this season, according to Bubba. I managed to get over launch about 500 ft and flew for 40 minutes. C.J. did better, as did Bubba. After packing up in the LZ in front of Willie’s house, we went to lunch at Pepper’s, a good restaurant in Boone. Then we went back to Bubba’s where we did a bunch of housekeeping tasks like cleaning out the cooler. C.J. and Beth made lemonade out of the lemons we had been carrying with us since North Bend.
10 April 2008 Thursday – We had pancakes for breakfast with Bubba and Beth – they were better with maple syrup than iced tea (same color, in the same size mason jar). The weather wasn’t great for flying so Bubba took us to Grandfather Mountain and introduced us to Hugh Morton’s daughter and got us some copies of Hang Gliding Masters programs. We visited the zoo area, the visitors center where we watched a 1985 Hugh Morton film on bears, and the swinging bridge across which were some of the old launch ramp sites on the rocky crest. We stopped in Blowing Rock on the way home and got ice cream cones at Kilwin’s. We bought a cooked chicken and salad makings at Ingles in Boone and had dinner at home.
11 April 2008 Friday – We got up at 0630 and said goodbye to Bubba and Beth about 0715. The route took us through five states and under the Cumberland Gap. We stopped at an overlook above a lake about an hour down the road and found that our milk (in the thermos) was sour so we stopped to buy yogurt in ____ and ate on the run. We stopped at the Cumberland Gap visitors center and drove up to Pinnacle Overlook then had lunch at a picnic area in the park that was somewhat sheltered from the strong winds. On the road again, the sky began to become overcast and we began driving in rain. Then it became a storm with lots of lightning and torrential rain for maybe 30 minutes. We ran beyond the storm and eventually got back into sunshine. In midafternoon we satisfied a hungering for a DQ Blizzard and finally reached Columbus, OH and Indiana. We bought a half tank of gas in Greensburg, called Wayne and pushed on to Fishers to arrive right around 1915. Wayne, Betty, Darby and Allison and we went out for New York-style pizza.
12 April Saturday - We hung out at home, did laundry, played games on the Wii, and had a great supper of shishkabab followed by strawberry shortcake with lots of whipped cream.
13 April 14, 2008 Sunday – After blueberry pancakes, we went over to see Allison’s house. Later we had grilled chicken for dinner – with more strawberry shortcake!
14 April 14, 2008 Monday – We got up early enough to see Wayne off to work. Jeannie had to go bring a check to Darby at her first day of work orientation so she took off too. So we had breakfast and got going around 0915. We found Costco in Castleton and filled up the gas tank then headed NW to check out the possibility of flying at Indiana Dunes/Mt Baldy National Lakeshory. We had leftover chicken for lunch in the parking lot then went up to look at conditions. The area had changed with the dune beginning to encroach on the parking area and the trail has been rerouted to avoid disturbing the slipface any more. Conditions were perfect so we went back and got our PGs and C.J. flew first and soared for a while before sinking out. Then I launched below and to the left and was able to get 15 minutes before landing on top to see if I could help C.J. She launched again from below the dune and wasn’t able to soar. I launched again and flew 10 min finally trying to stay up as I headed W along the trees. I almost got snagged by a branch and turned back and landed near the stairs. When we were carrying our wings back to the car, the ranger stopped us and asked if we had a permit – uh-oh – but he was a nice guy and didn’t cite us. We found out that the new rules will prohibit flying between Apr 30 and Sep 30 (?) and that the permit costs $25 – it was free when we got ours back in 1998. It was 1530 by the time we headed for Glen Ellyn and we didn’t get to Mary and Dave’s until after 1800. We had a great spaghetti and meatball dinner with all three of the boys home for the meal, and then chatted until 2130 or so.
15 April 16, 2008 Tuesday – C.J. went with Mary to her aerobics class and I got up later and had breakfast, picked up email and stuff. After C.J. got back we had lunch and then went to the Morton Arboretum with the DiCarlo’s annual pass and walked through the children’s area, the conifer path and out around part of the main loop through the Northern Illinois woodland back to the visitor center. We went back to Mary’s and had a snack and around 1710 went to watch an invitational gymnastics meet that Tom was in. After the event we stopped at Dave’s scout meeting and then we went to dinner at the Country House restaurant somewhere south of Glen Ellyn.
16 April 16, 2008 Wednesday – We were on the road around 0840, late enough to avoid the traffic, went north to Whitewater just to get a frozen custard from Frosty’s, the place we first had some. Then we slogged on for a total of almost 12 hours to reach Sioux City where we were able to get a double room at MicroTel for the coupon price of a single. We looked for a reasonable place to eat dinner but decided on a WalMart chicken again since it was so much cheaper than a restaurant. Gas mileage today was in the low 20’s probably because of the strong quartering headwind that started around Rochester along with a 20 degree drop in the temp. And, gas prices have been high since Indiana where they were 3.45 (we saw 3.55 near Glen Ellyn) and we paid 3.45 even at Costco in Illinois. They’ve dropped down to 3.26 or so here in Sioux Falls but we paid 3.32 earlier in Rochester, Mn.
17 April 18, 2008 Thursday – The breakfast included bake-your-own waffles so I made one and we shared it along with cocoa and a decent small choc chip muffin. We got on the road by 0830 (?) and pretty much drove straight through to Badlands NP where we took a walk along a yellow-stake-marked trail. Then it was on to Rapid City (after a quick stop to get some gas in Wall) where we stopped for info on camping (we were concerned about whether camp grounds might be closed because of recent snowy weather). We didn’t get much definitive info at the visitor center so we headed on towards the Black Hills with stops for some groceries and gas. At a USFS ranger station we got more info and a recommendation to stay at Comanche CG just W of Custer or, our plan, go on to Wind Cave NP. We drove out through Hill City, past the Crazy Horse carving and through Custer. We found no campground or even a sign so turned back and descended to Wind Cave where around 1730 or so we checked in to an empty campground with no water (but it only cost us $3 with the Golden Age pass so we could afford to provide our own water). We had plenty of sunshine while we cooked supper and it didn’t begin to get cold until the sun went down and the wind picked up. After dinner we walked out to pay our fee and found that some bison were passing right outside the fence! Later we drove out to see if we could find any more wildlife and C.J. spotted a flock of turkeys just beyond the CG entrance. There were lots of deer, another buffalo, but no elk or prairie dogs. Back at camp we scrounged up some left-behind wood and made a campfire but, even with the flames, the breeze made it too cold to stay outside long. By 2030 we were buttoned up in the tent with a quilt over our sleeping bags. We were warm enough throughout the night (except when we had to get up for the unavoidable trip to the bathroom).
18 April 18, 2008 Friday – The sun hit the tent around 0700 but we waited until it warmed up around 0730 before getting up and out of the tent. It was warm enough to warrant doing a cooked camp breakfast and it was a beautiful day. After breakfast (which used up just about all of the water we had been carrying) we finished breaking camp and drove north through Wind Cave NP and Custer SP passing huge prairie dog towns which looked like desert in the pre-spring conditions, deer, bison and antelope. The ride through the park was great but where the scenery became really excellent was when we were back in the BH NF on Iron Mountain Road. There were long range views of Mt. Rushmore and there were three short tunnels cut in the rock that framed Mt. Rushmore. There were also spiral bridges and the Norbeck overlook to enjoy. Around 1130 we reached Mt. Rushmore, paid our $10 fee to park (“good for a year”, yeah, right) and did the tourist walk along the Presidential Trail, and visited the exhibits. I was feeling antsy to make some miles so we headed north through the Black Hills, stopping for lunch at Sheridan Lake and then stopping momentarily to confirm that Pacolt Reservoir really was covered with ice. After driving down through Deadwood, we hit I-90 and headed on to Buffalo, Wy. where we checked into a Motel 6 since we had heard that the weather was going to turn bad and there were no free/cheap campgrounds nearby. Actually the temperature was in the 60’s and it was mostly sunny with some virga visible over the Big Horns. We had burgers at a Hardees just so we couldn’t say we had traveled for 6 weeks without eating in a fast-food joint. Tomorrow is also supposed to be nice around here but the NWS is predicting snow in Missoula which is our goal for tomorrow. It should be an easy two day drive, but with snow it may be more challenging.
19 April 19, 2008 Saturday – We ate the last two Florida tangerines before heading out about 0750 and stopped for granola and yogurt in Hardin, just beyond the Custer Battlefield. Weather forecasts called for a good morning but rain and snow by evening and possibly 6-10 inches so we decided on skipping a stay in Missoula and continuing on to Coeur d’Alene where we would be beyond the Rockies. We did it in about 11.5 hours arriving 1815 PDT. We encountered heavy snow and slushy roads as we climbed up over Pipestone Pass just E of Butte then mixed rain and snow with some clear patches from there on. By the time we arrived in CdA, the sky had cleared but it was still cold, although not down in the upper 20’s that we had encountered earlier, a big change from the 60’s we started out with. At the GH Guesthouse Inn, checking the local yellow pages for “BBQ”, I decided on Joey’s Smokin’ BBQ, called for direction and then drove over there. The manager, Randy, was very friendly and helped us make a choice among too many good items. On the way back we checked Costco gas price (one cent lower than street price but still high to us at $3.36) and replaced a windshield wiper blade that had not been working well in the heavy snow and rain today.
20 April 20, 2008 Sunday – Today we marked 8000 miles on our road trip and returned home. After a carbohydrate and sugar breakfast at the motel (waffles, instant oatmeal, juice), we picked up gas at Costco just a few blocks away and by 0815 we were on our way. Actually, we had to return to the area where we had dinner last night so C.J. could get some pictures of two public art sculptures of feathers which must have been 10 ft tall. Then we made our final state border crossing (still in sunshine but cold) and drove through Spokane on I-90. Part way to Ritzville we ran into two big cells of heavy snow and had to drive a ways with snow and slush on the road. For the rest of the day we were into and out of snow cells which dampened our enthusiasm for going to fly at Saddle – although we did call Doc Shallman to see if he was heading up that way. C.J. thought it was too cold and unstable to fly anyway, but she almost changed her mind in time to head south at Vantage where the windsock was showing north. We crossed Snoqualmie Pass on bare and barely wet pavement but had snow squalls all the way in to North Bend where we stopped at QFC for staples like milk, bread and ice cream. Janie ran over to ask how our trip had been as we pulled into our driveway so we even got a “welcome home” greeting. All around, a good trip!

24 January 2008

Ecuador 2008

January 4-January 21 2008




4 Jan All good travels begin at oh-dark-thirty and this time it was even darker than usual with us leaving home at 0300 so we could drop our car at Bob's and catch a taxi to SeaTac for the 0620 Continental flight. After stops in Houston and Panama City, we arrived in Quito in the dark (photo above was taken at another time) only to have another 1 1/2 hour wait in line to get through Immigration. We never saw the guy who supposedly was there with a sign to pick us up so we haggled a still-overpriced cab fare to get to the hotel in the Mariscal Sucre district on our own. The Hostal Fuente de Piedra looked really nice with exposed wood and stucco, and the staff spoke enough English to get us into a room where we crashed for some much needed sleep.

5 Jan We had breakfast (eggs, etc, included) in the courtyard with other members of our group and then Kevin and Juan showed up and we walked down into "gringolandia" (the Mariscal) to the Magic Bean for jugos (juices) and batidos (like a smoothy w/o ice) and some information about what we could do in the city today. C.J. and I returned to the hotel then walked the six blocks or so to El Parque Ejido for the weekend crafts market where the rest of the group had migrated to as well. On the way back we wandered down Avenue Amazonas and stopped at a Gothic-like church where a wedding was in progress before returning to the hostal. Around 1800 Kevin, Juan and Julian drove us to a crepes and waffle place (decidedly non-traditional) for dinner. Back in our room we repacked for flying tomorrow on the way to Ibarra.

6 Jan The last two of our party to get toQuito, Nona and Steve, showed up at breakfast and shortly thereafter we started loading a small Mercedes Sprinter bus with our wings, and Juan's Land Rover with our other luggage. Heading north out of the city, we turned left up a cobblestone then dirt road to a high (13,000 ft) ridge with an antenna farm. The conditions appeared perfect for flying but Juan's wife, Carrie, down at the LZ was having difficulties with the landowner. An alternative LZ was available but Kevin was understandably reluctant to send us off to a less than optimum landing field on our first day and at unusually high altitude.

We drove down and did the tourist thing of visiting Mitad al Mundo, a site containing a large monument marking the equator, as well as shops, restaurants and other buildings (photo above). From there we backtracked a ways, dropped off Carrie, and I got to ride with Juan for the rest of the day. We got on the Pan-American Highway, descended into the Guayallbamba River gorge and then continued up and over several ridges on a tollroad until we reached a viewpoint above Lago San Pablo near Otavalo. After a short rest stop we descended to the lake and a resort restaurant, Puerto Lago, for lunch. C.J. and I had some of the local soups, and a plato tipico Otavaleno, all very good. Skirting Otavalo, we went through Ibarra and around Lago Yahuarcocha (busy on Epiphany weekend) to our lodging at Rancho Totoral. After checking in, and noting the wind was wrong for flying, we went to see the official LZ and also looked at the golf course for a possible landing area. Dinner around 1930 was excellent with pollo mignon and trucha con hierbas followed by a scoop each of mora (blackberry) and guanabana (like soursop) helados de paila, excellent ice cream/sorbet.

7 Jan We got up for an early breakfast and an early start up to the highest launch, El Bestial, above
a lower launch, Yuracrucito, which itself was above a statue of San Miguel, patron saint of Ibarra. When we reached the last turnoff onto a steep, narrow road we got out of the bus and walked the quarter mile or so to the launch at 10,400 ft. The wind was NE which was over the back of the ridge unless you cared to launch into a deep, steep canyon. After an hour or more we walked and drove back down stopping at La Estrelita, a resort/restaurant high on the mountain with a possible launch nearby. Reaching the lake level
again, we stopped at Rancho Totoral to pick up lunch and Kerry, a student of Kevin and the final member of our group to arrive. Then we drove up to the Aloburo launch where the wind was blowing W, straight in (!) even though the higher clouds were clearly still moving from the NE over the ridgetop behind us. Since conditions looked so good no one rushed to launch and we waited for our guide Julian to go first. He took off and sank out pretty quickly in what appeared to be turbulent conditions, not even making it to the LZ. Shortly afterwards the wind crossed and then blew down and we all re-boarded the bus and headed back to the hotel. Since it was reasonably early we cleaned up and headed for the famous crafts market at Otavalo, about an hour away. It covered the whole Plaza de Ponchos and was filled with stalls of weavings, sweaters, shawls, hammocks, hats and souvenirs. We had a blast bargaining with the short, round-faced Quechua girls in indigenous dress ending up with a shirt and panama hat for me and scarves, alpaca shawls, embroidered blouses, a sweater and pants for C.J. As the market was closing down we bought
a street empanada (deep-fried dough filled with cheese) and then got back on the bus with our loot. A 13-yr-old Otavalena joined us on the bus, sang a few songs and offered scarves and woven belts to buy, then got off at the tollbooth at the edge of town. Back at the Rancho we all showed up for dinner wearing some of our new clothing and had another great meal, this time pollo mignon champinons and trucha con (garlic) and a dessert made of condensed milk and eggs, sort of a dry custard.

8 Jan Tues We tried El Bestial again. This time we drove all the way up and the wind was right but the clouds obscured the route to the lake LZ. Juan was geared up and on launch, but as the clouds cleared the wind started blowing down. I tried kiting on the NE facing slope and, once, when I had my wing up over head, a burro at the farm just below brayed loudly in alarm. Probably a good thing or I might have considered launching into the deep canyon. We drove down once again, picked up sandwiches at RT and headed right up Aloburo. Launch was in the sun and cycles were mostly "up". We ate lunch first and Steve launched and I followed him, then C.J. Our first flights in Ecuador! No one else launched and, except for C.J., we had sledders even though I went to the left to fly over the plateau with the almost-obscured ruins.

When the Land Rover arrived with Barbara on the roof we were packed up and relaxing in the shade. Barb, Karen and Kerry stayed to kite in the LZ while we went back to the cabin to rest and wash out some clothes. At 1615 we headed back up to Aloburo to try to catch a glassoff. Two pilots got off but then it blew down strongly and we gave it up for the day. For dinner we drove in to Ibarra and ate at a deli-restaurant not far from the main plaza. I withdrew $200 from an ATM, not knowing when we might have another chance. C.J. and I shared a "pizzette" and a very Euro-looking plate of thin slices of dried ham (Serranon?) with cheese, olives, salami, pickles and toasted baguette slices with a grande cerveza.

9 Jan Wed We were up at 0430 for the long bus trip to a launch in the Rio Choto area. Ir was drizzling when we left and we had low clouds, more drizzle, showers and sunshine but no flying. The route took us north on the Pan Americana into to lower elevation Rio Chota valley then west through El Angel and farther with roads going from paved to cobblestone to dirt to two-tracks with some
deep mud bogs. The bus got stuck once but we pushed it

free and drove to within a quarter mile of the summit. It was barely misting but we were well and truly in a cloud with no way to see the LZ in the valley below. There were possible launch sites facing at least three directions with almost no wind to make one a better choice than another. The story was that we had to fly before 1100 when the valley heated up and conditions became too strong. 1100 came and went while we waited in the cloud. Finally the valley began to clear and launchable wind blew up from the E, the direction most directly towards the LZ. We had our guides (Kevin's partners Juan and Julian) and a couple more locals but no one wanted to be first off the hill especially as the wind got stronger. So we ended up carrying our gear a mile or so back to the bus (C.J. was fortunate that Julian carried her gear.) There was a lot of concern about getting through the mud but our driver, Enrique, did a great job and we slithered through easily. Back in the valley bottom we found the road to the LZ blocked by national police due to some kind of riot - it was lucky that no one had launched and found found themselves in that mess! We got back around 1600 and had another great dinner at RT. Now there was only one more possible day for flying in the Andes.

10 Jan Thu WE had to leave today to get to the hot springs at Papallacta, but the conditions finally looked good for flying. We went up to Aloburo and almost everyone got off for a sledder after the valley fog lifted. We packed up quickly and the bus arrived soon after and we went back up (seeing Nona and Steve launch as we were on our way). I went first on this round finding lift right out in front and climbing to the top of the ridge. then I headed left and flew through sink crossing a canyon to the plateau with the ruins where I thermaled up and drifted back. Continuing to the left around the lake, I reached the statue of San Miguel and

shot a couple of photos. Then I turned out and headed for the lake and followed
the shoreline above the totora reeds to the LZ for about a 24 min flight. C.J. landed shortly afterward, and Kevin and Julian. Back at RT we finished packing, had lunch and checked out, but didn't leave until 1500 or so. We drove through Cayambe and El Quinche and up over a 4000 m pass (unfortunately invisible in the dark) to Papallacta (pah pah JAK ta) and Termas, a definitely upscale hot springs resort. We bathed in the three thermal pools right outside our cabin then went in to dinner at 2100 (beef w/pineapple, pork w/ fettuccine and pesto, pisco sour and beer).

11 Jan Fri WE had set the alarm for 0630 and dragged ourselves out into the cold so we could use the pools before breakfast and departure. After quick soak in the cabin-side pool we wrapped up in our towels and fleece and walked out to the balneario where there were many more pools on a hillside.
The uppermost pool was adjacent to a rushing mountain stream and, if you were that kind of person, you could alternate between the hot water of the pool and the freezing water of the stream. After breakfast in the hotel restaurant, where I found out that an Ecuadorian tortilla is an omelet, we headed back over the 4000 m pass in sunshine and down the winding roads towards the coast. As we passed into the cloud forest it became overcast and we had a few sprinkles of rain. We stopped for lunch just outside of Santo Domingo los Colorados at a big roadside cafeteria with surprisingly good food and a garden of flowers, geese and peacocks. Santo Domingo seemed to be a pretty gritty place with the only sights of interest being the "no-tell motels" with high walls and 24-hour service. The rest of the trip was a long grind (10 hrs total) in the rain on bad roads ( there was concern that it was late enough that we might miss the last Bahia de Caraquez ferry, so we went around on the Canoa side of the river/inlet). We got to Hosteria Canoa around 1730 and then went into town for dinner at the Bambu, outside dining at tables lighted with conch shells. The rain had stopped and it was plenty warm enough.

12 Jan Sat The bus left early in the morning with Juan to keep Enrique company on the long drive, and we went in to breakfast at the Bambu in the Land Rover. I think C.J. and I walked back to the hotel along the beach after breakfast. Then we loaded the wings on the Land Rover and went down the road to a closed beach restaurant/LZ for a briefing by Kevin.
A bit farther down the road, past a shrimp farm (major export in Ecuador, right up there with bananas), we turned onto a dirt road and Julian drove the gear to the top (alt: 150 m). I helped unload then looked at the light wind and decided it was doable. I launched and went R (downwind) to a set of cliffs and climbed slowly above launch. I flew back over launch to let people know it was soarable, then tried seeing how far I could go to the S across a small gap. It was a lot of fun and not "boring soaring" at all. When C.J. and Karen had been in the air for a while and conditions were still good, I talked them into trying to fly back to our hotel which wasn't too far to the N but there was a major gap. (photo above shows the ridge and the gap to the N) We made it across most of the gap (and small river!) and landed on the beach behind the Coconut Bungalows Hotel where we bought drinks and relaxed as first Nona, Steve and then Khadija landed nearby. Since everybody flew, Julian had to walk back up to get the vehicle, Karen and Khadija hitched and walked up also. After Kerry landed (2 hr 45 min) and got his malfunctioning radio off, we had a tailgate picnic and went back up. It was blowing 10-15+ and I thought hard about it but, using A's and C's I was able to do a smooth inflation and got off cleanly. This time there were no thermals I dared to drift back in but there were still plenty of Frigate birds and pelicans. I climbed easily to 300 m and when Karen finally launched, I left for the north. There was some sink in the big gap but I was able to reach the next set of cliffs and find a tandem wing soaring there (Greg Gilliam). I joined him for a while and then headed straight out over the Hosteria Canoa and landed on the beach next to the volleyball court. Karen and C.J. joined me there and later Kevin flew down to the beach in front of the Bambu, the far north end of town, where we met him for dinner.

13 Jan Sun It had been raining since 0400 and the unpaved streets in Canoa were a muddy mess when we drove in for breakfast. After breakfast we wandered around the town while others went to check email and such at one of the many little e-cafes. Later we all walked north up the beach trying to get around the headland to the bat cave. No luck, but there was plenty to see on the beach


(Canoa beach panorama)







(snail gliding across water skim)


After a self-catered lunch of cheese, crackers, coconut milk, fruit, chocolate, olives, and stuff back around the hotel pool (too wet to drive up to the launch even though the breeze was straight in on the beach), we went swimming in the 6 ft surf. Great fun in the warm water, but it left me wanting a body board (and C.J. another 8 inches of height). After hanging out in the pool for a while Julian suggested we go look at one launch or another. We drove over to El Nido, the usual Canoa launch and decided that it was too wet to drive on. After some indecision, we decided to carry our wings up (Julian volunteered to take C.J.'s) for what would most likely be a two-minute sledder. I launched first and turned right maintaining and climbing. When I turned back, I was over the ridge. Karen, C.J. and Kerry launched and we all soared for a while going north and south a ways. I came close to toplanding but Julian said he did not want to fly my wing so after 40 min or so I landed with Kerry near the Cielo de Pacifico restaurant (closed) and Karen and C.J. followed shortly. Nona and Steve weren't around and Khadija had opted not to carry her wing up to launch. After quick showers we went back to the Bambu for ceviche pescado, camarron al ajillo and a Hippy (coffee-flavored liquor shake) for dessert.

14 Jan Mon Raining again this morning! (Well, it is the beginning of the rainy season after all, so it should be no surprise. but Kevin says it's very unusual. Typically, he says, the group flies every day; we've had only 4 flying days so far.) We ate breakfast under the thatched roof of the Bambu where we/Kevin decided to leave a day early for Crucita. Back at the Hosteria we packed up and I discovered that I had tweaked my back at some point so I took a couple of Alleve and rested until 1300 when we loaded up Juan's Land Rover (Juan is still in Quito for a wedding and his anniversary) and a rented pickup truck with driver. We had to wait an hour-and-a-half for the ferry to Bahia and then had had lunch at Dona Luca's so we did not get to Crucita until after 1730.
We went right up to launch (through the gate with list of all the personas non gratas) where it was blowing in pretty lightly and the tide was high leaving the landing option somewhat limited. Down in Crucita on the waterfront, we checked in to the Hostal Casa Grande and had a light dinner. Crucita is a larger town than Canoa and most of the streets are paved, but the hotel did not have hot water for showers (and the electricity went off during the night shutting down the fan).

(C.J. and Karen over launch with Crucita behind)









15 Jan Tues We could hear the rain when it started early in the morning. We had the "Americano" breakfast and the rain gradually tapered off. I walked north along the water front about a mile to the fish processing shed which were the gathering place for a cloud of birds hoping to pick up the scraps. C.J. was napping because we are both suffering the effects of a cold which has swept through the clients on the trip. Around 1100 we were on our way back up to launch where it was blowing in lightly. I launched and sank out to the beach below but Julian came down quickly and brought me back up. C.J. and Kerry launched, sank out and got rides back up. then the velocity picked up a little and Karen, C.J., Nona and Steve launched followed by me. I went L and kept going past the "stilt house" on the ridge to about 3.67 km from launch at a cliff face with a road above, "the spoon". I soared there for a while then tried going farther S but after .5 km, I was sinking and had to return low and work back up. Heading N after about a half-hour, I tried to get to the launch high enough to do a toplanding but I ended up on the beach instead with Karen coming in 5-10 min later. We got a ride back up and hung out at the restaurant above launch for a while. Around 1700 C.J. and I walked down to the hostal, where the electricity was on again and rested until dinnertime. Juan and Khadija had bought some chicken soup makings, had the hotel kitchen staff prepare it, and we had that for dinner along with a beet salad and bread. We were pretty tired and went off to bed at 2000.

16 Jan Wed I had a bad night with congestion and a fever but we got up at the usual time and had breakfast, bought another 5L bottle of waterand went up to launch. There was some blue sky but the wind was light. A local PG launched and sank out. Juan launched later, went down the ridge and landed. Julian gave it a try and made it back to the beach below launch to land. Before he did, I was in the air and thinking light thoughts to try to stay up. I slowly gained and went south beyond the spoon but again got low and had to return. I got up again and went back to launch where I had to work down in order to top land just inside the back fence. C.J.
had launched after me and continued flying for over three hours. A while later I launched again but not before getting dragged on launch when I tried to tease out a tangle before getting the wing overhead. After brushing myself off, I managed a good launch and went S to the spoon where it now was easy to get over 300 m (whereas, earlier getting over 200 m was a big deal). Reaching 355 m, I pulled on 1/2 speedbar and went south all the way to the end of the ridge - the last .5 km being very slow. I was down to 190 m when I turned back and zoomed at 35 kph back to the higher ridge. (photo, left, shows the view at Crucita to the south)I worked a while and got to 416 m and headed out over the ocean in front of town planning to land on the beach in fron tof the hotel. The wind had picked up still more as evidenced by the wind lines and whitecaps forming. C.J. was doing the same thing, as was Steve. We all kept upwind of the Malecon, waterfront boulevard and landed on the narrow beach facing out towards the water. We walked the short distance to the hotel and sat down on the patio for a beer with Steve and Nona. When everyone had returned to the hotel we folded our wings up for travel in the wind shadow behind the restaurant and put them in the Land Rover. We gathered again around 1915, settled our tabs with the restaurant and walked to the Hostal Voladores, the Luis' and Raoul's Flyers' Hotel, for dinner (fish,of course). Back in our room I took 3 IB hoping to get a better night's sleep. It worked for me but not for C.J.

17 Jan Thu The Land Rover headed for Quito around 0430 and our taxi-bus arrived at 0530. We drove in the dark arriving just about sunrise at the small but modern Manta airport. The flight to Quito was only 30 min (8 hrs by road!) and a bus driver met us with a "Levin Lee" sign. While waiting for Khadija to try to change her tickets I got $400 out of an ATM for Kevin, then we were taken back to the Fuente de Piedra and checked into the same room we had before.
Our long delayed breakfast was at the Magic Bean. C.J. felt dizzy and couldn't finsh her pancake (but no one could finish the huge pancakes). After breakfast we wandered along Ave JL Mera and stopped in the Galleria Latina to see some high-end crafts. More appropriately we found some 7 for a dollar postcards and a t-shirt at Hyla Camisetas, a t-shirt shop. Back at the hotel C.J. restred for a while, then at 1400 Kevin took us by Taxi to the Basilica (ca 1926) where, after touring the inside, we climbed up into the belfry, crossed the space above the nave on a Balrog bridge, and climbed again up into the steeple. We skipped lunch and took a taxi back to the hotel where C.J. rested again. At 1730 the bus picked us up and we drove in heavy traffic by circuitous routes to Mucki's a special restaurant belonging to a friend of Juan. The food was excellent - Argentinian beef, lamb chops, salad, vegetables, all tastily prepared. Now that the rush hour was over, it only took 20 minutes to get back to the hotel. So by 2245 we were saying goodbye to the rest of the group who were heading back to the states early the next morning.

18 Jan Fri Sleeping in (until 0730) felt like a luxury and so did the hot shower. After breakfast we walked around the block to the Hotel Sierra Madre to find out when we could check in (Fuente de Piedra had made reservations for us early on when they had no room for us on the 18, 19, and 20th). They were really helpful and said we could move in anytime, but when we went back to Fuente, they asked why we were leaving. Apparently now they had room. Go figure. So we stayed in the same room for a reasonable price which we put on the credit card. After settling back in we walked to a nearby bank and used the ATM to get $500 mostly to pay the balance to Kevin. After finishing our financial dealings with Kevin we went down to Ave 6 Dec and bought a 10 ride bus ticket at the Ecovia station. The bus ride to old town was simple - we got off at La Marin and walked uphill to Plaza Grande passing lots of little food stalls and cheap businesses. The plaza was quiet but
later, while we were touring the Cathedral, we could hear music and amplified voices and firecrackers (surely not gunfire!) emanating from a large demonstration in front of the government building. There were lots of police and soldiers around; it was interesting that some of the police had swords. We went first to La Compania (the church of the Society of Jesus, the Jesuits) which had been restored not too long ago to its gold-encrusted splendor, lots of gold leaf everywhere. Then we toured the Cathedral (photo, left, the Cathedral) and its religious art and paraphernalia museums. We got back to the plaza just as the demonstration was breaking up so we rested on a bench for a while then went looking for the post office with no luck. We caught our bus back to the hotel but this time it was really crowded and we barely squeezed on and we had to wriggle our way off at the bus stop. Back at the hotel restaurant we shared the almuerzo, the fixed price lunch, along with all the meat we had brought back from Mucki's in our styrofoam doggy bag. We took a rest in the room and then went down to gringolandia to the post office to get postcard stamps. Later we went out again to get an ice cream cone at Los Alpes and we also toured a Super-Maxi supermarket to see what was different from the US .

19 Jan Sat We ate breakfast a bit later than usual and walked to the weekend artisan market in El Parque Ejido. It was still setting up so there were few artworks displayed along the sidewalks and the stalls were still being stocked. Nevertheless, C.J. found the tablerunner she was looking for and a couple of woven belts as we made two circuits through the market. Next we crossed the Ave 6 Dec to the Museo de la Cultura of the Nacional Banco Central del Ecuador. The first floor had well-displayed pre-Spanish artifacts including a special section on gold. We spent less time on the second floor with its colonial displays, and even
less on the era of nationalism (and totally skipped the contemporary art). We went back to the market and made one more circuit and C.J. couldn't resist one more pair of pants. Tired by now, we walked back to the hotel for another almuerzo of legume soup, pork, mora jugo and a light strawberry (frutillo) pudding. We rested, read and coughed for a while then decided that we had to have a colorful hammock so at 1630 we went back to the market and looked through a bunch of stalls until we found the style and color we wanted. Walking back along Ave. Amazonas we stopped at a mall built on a spiral plan, then we took another route back to the hotel. We ate dinner in the hotel restaurant but it didn't seem as good as the lunches we had had there. Oh well. (Actually, I thought my churrasco was pretty good)

20 Jan Sun After breakfast I tried to check online for our flight with no luck and had to have the girl at the desk help me do it by telephone (Later we found out that COPA does not require its passenger to reconfirm reservations.) While I was there I asked for a taxi at 0430 and a wakeup call at 0400. Then we took the bus to
the old town again, walked up through the Plaza Grande and on to the church of La Merced where we tried to follow the mass in Spanish for a while. We moved along to the church and monastery of San Francisco and picked up mass about where we had left it at La Merced. When we left we continued S on Garcia Moreno to the Museo de la Ciudad which is in a restored colonial-era hospital with well-done exhibits (photo, left, shows the Virgin of Quito above the domed roof of the museum) . Finally finding an exit we emerged from the museum and headed east on the colonial-era Calle Ronda then turned north on Guayquil. We found the Lonely Planet-recommended Heladeria San Agustin and had a couple of scoops of tropical fruit ice cream. Almost directly across the street we stopped at a stand that was selling freshly-made donuts so we were well-fortified for the rest of the walk. Leaving Old Town, we reached Parque Alameda but there were no boats in the tiny lakes, the observatory was being renovated and the spiral ramp to a viewpoint was closed off (photo, left, shows the Bolivar monument in the park). We detoured a bit to the east to see the frieze on the Legislative Building, and then walked through Parque El Ejido where a storyteller was amusing a crowd, and returned home to the hotel just before a rainshower hit. *Last day jinx hits again* After resting a while and packing our bags, we decided to got to dinner. The hotel restaurant was closed and the receptionist suggested finding a restaurant down in the Mariscal. We asked if it would be safe and she said it would be okay if we weren't out too late - like 2200. We looked through the guidebook and picked out a few possibilities and then settled on La Canoa when we came to it. Food and service were good and we finally got to try the fritada (fried pork) and encebollado (tuna soup with yucca and onions). On the way back, on a deserted, but well-lit street only two blocks from Ave 6 Dec I was accosted by a dark-skinned man in dark clothing who grappled with me and finally tore off my velcro-belted belt pack and ran towards Ave 6 Dec where he disappeared. C.J. had bashed him over the bead a couple of times with her water bottle but I didn't even bother chasing him since he had gotten only the belt pack and our Lonely Planet guidebook. We hope that his fellows laugh him out of the Muggers Guild. A local hotel owner and a tourist from Sweden came out and made sure we were alright and called the police. They were very clear that Sundays were a bad time to walk around the Mariscal: many of the shops were closed and there were few private security guards around. The police didn't show up even after the hotel owner called them again so we left our hotel name and walked back to our hotel. We didn't hear anything more about it but we told the receptionist and hope that she gives better advice to hotel guests after this.

21 Jan Mon The travel alarm woke me at 0330 (but the 0400 wakeup call did not materialize) to catch the taxi to the airport at 0430. We got there plenty early and a porter took our baggage to the fron tof the check-in line (not really necessary but it wasn't clear how to get to the counter). After handing over our baggage and getting our boarding passes, we had to pay the departure tax of $40.80 each (!). We got to keep our water bottles, and since we had no foreign currency to get rid of, we didn't feel a need to buy any duty-free stuff. Approaching Panama City, we had a good view of the Canal and the city. We lost our water bottles at the gate before boarding for Houston. Entry and customs at Houston was just a formality and we were in Seattle pretty much on time at 1730 PST (2030 Quito time). We had a great view of Rainier, Adams and St. Helens as we flew north of them near sunset. Bob picked us up as soon as we recovered all of our baggage. Another memorable trip!