09 December 2019

Holiday Letter - 2019


Dear Friends and Family,


Just by receiving this you know that we are still alive and kicking. C.J. is finally retired retired – not even doing any part-time editing. She resigned from USHPA Pilot magazine effective this December at the same time her well-liked editor turned in his resignation. George is on something like his thirteenth year of retirement, so nothing new there.


We’ve had a few fun trips this year starting with a couple of weeks paragliding in Colombia with our favorite guides, Passion Paragliding. This time it was safari-style as we traveled from Medellin to
 On our chiva on the way to launch
Jerico, La Pintada, Merced, La Union (near Roldanillo), and finally to Piedechinche near Cali. We got in a lot of flying, as well as visits to local sights (and sites), plus lots of good food. We returned to the US just in time for a big snowstorm that had us shoveling the driveway for days as the storm continued. It was exciting to watch the big slabs of snow avalanche off our roof – until one slab ripped off our north gutter, and another slab took off the south gutter. Eventually we replaced them with new ones that have a “gutter helmet” to prevent leaves filling them up. Seems to be working so far. While the snow lasted I got to do a fair amount of cross-country skiing; C.J., unfortunately, was suffering from a cough that would not go away and she could not tolerate the cold, dry air. Over a period of several weeks she ended up seeing several specialists, had a CT scan and tried a bunch of drugs including inhalers until the cough kind of faded away.


We’re still flying, just not as much as we did in the early years of our addiction. April was a good month for hang gliding (C.J.) at Dog Mountain. We also joined the locals in planting trees to keep the landowners happy thus keeping our access open to the landing zone. We also flew our paragliders at Saddle Mtn., Blanchard, Baldy Butte, and our local site, Tiger Mtn.


Our tandem sea kayak got some use when we spent a week on Orcas Island at Dee
r Harbor in May
with Ginny and Wally. The paddle around the tree-covered islands on the way to Yellow Island was a highlight, but we also did several short, but fun hikes to Turtle Mountain and Obstruction Pass, as well as in Moran State Park.


We added to our toys in Jun and July when we bought electric bikes. George got a Rattan through Amazon and C.J., after some searching through a couple of Seattle bike shops, found a foldable 20-inch-wheel bike from Leitner, a brand popular in Australia. We’ve done a number of rides mostly on bike trails and old RR grades. Fortunately, one of them, the Snoqualmie Valley Trail passes within a block of our house. 


The other big trip of the year was a Viking river cruise from St. Petersburg to Moscow with the Goldmans. It started right after our annual Woodrat Mountain paragliding competition in southern Oregon. In fact, we had to skip the last day so we could get home and do laundry before leaving early for the long flight to Russia. We had a really affordable deal with Viking because they gave us almost half of our fare back for the Danube cruise last year because of the low water level that interfered with some of the planned itinerary. We really like the river cruise concept where most of the excursions are included in the base fare. Thus, we got tours of St. Petersburg, visits to The Hermitage and Catherine’s Palace, and paid only for a Cossack entertainment complete with vodka, and a canal cruise we booked ourselves at a rate much below that of an official excursion. The trip along the Baltic Waterway (including a stretch of the Volga River) had several interesting stops before we reached Moscow. Again, there was a walking tour that started with a subway ride to several palatial stations, then visits to a new Orthodox cathedral, Red Square, GUM department store (now filled with luxury international shops) and St. Basil’s Cathedral. One evening we enjoyed a musical performance at a local venue, and another night we took a night tour of Moscow which included a canal tour. One more walking tour took us through the Kremlin with its museums and cathedrals. This trip certainly changed our Cold War impressions of Russia.


The rest of the summer and fall were anticlimactic after that, but we got away for a week to
WorldMark McCall in central Idaho. We had planned for lots of hiking, paddling on Payette Lake, and e-biking on the many trails, but the weather turned wintery just as soon as we left home and we were left with hiking in the snow and touring along the Warren Wagon Road by car to a more than 100-year old gold mining town. Ginny and Wally were able to join us for a couple of days on their way to an eagle-banding adventure in Montana.


Recently we had a setback when a tree landed on our 2012 Kia. Bummer (!), but we sent the car off to the body shop and continued with our trip to Vidanta on the Riviera Maya south of Cancun expecting it would be repaired by the time we got back. We had our usual good time exploring the resort, enjoying the poolside drinks and snacks and walking on the beach (now protected from the sargassum plants by a fence/net just offshore). However, on the day we returned, while we were still at
the airport, an email from USAA informed us that that our car had been declared a total loss! We were in shock. Fortunately our pinochle buddies (we’ve been playing nearly once a week for at least a year) were able to give us rides until George could get into town, rent a car and start looking for a replacement vehicle. Anyway, we got a new-to-us 2016 Kia so we’re on the road once again.


It’s been an overall good year, we’re both more healthy than not, and we’re thankful for that. We hope you are doing well and looking forward to the new year. Please let us know what’s going on with you; we love holiday letters.


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!


Love,

George and C.J.

20 November 2019

Vidanta Grand Luxxe - 2019


10-18 November 2019




10 Nov, Sun – Another on-and-off rainy day. We finished packing up and met Randy and Diana at 2015 for taxi service to the airport. We were there by 2100 and got checked in. Then we noticed that we did not have TSA pre-check so we went back. The United agent scanned one of our boarding passes and we added our Trusted Traveler numbers from our Global Entry cards. Then new boarding passes were printed with Pre-check. We had priority boarding so we got to board in Zone 2 which made sure that we had a place for our carry-ons. We took off shortly after midnight.


11 Nov, Mon. We arrived at Houston sometime after 0600 and, after finding our gate, we went to an Asian shop in a small food court and shared a breakfast taco which was actually pretty good. Our flight left IAH about 0915 CST and we arrived in Cancun about 1226 (EST). United had run out of immigration papers for our flight so we had to go through a self-check-in procedure and then C.J. had to report to the immigacion agent anyway. No problem with baggage or customs and the shark pool was quite subdued. No one hassled us to sign up for their special deals. We found our Cancun Bay shuttle and it soon took just us to Vidanta. It had been raining off and on, but it was certainly warm. We got dropped off at the Central Lobby and rode a tram to The Grand Luxxe lobby; our bags were left with the bell boys to deliver later. We figured we would not be able to check in until 1700 but Enrique took us right away. Part of registration was a hold placed on our credit card for $1000 USD. Concierge Ana then signed us up for a Vidanta Update (sales presentation) on Fri at 0845. She also got my phone to work on the Vidanta Wi-Fi (but not on the local data network (I had replaced my CC sim with a Telcel chip). She gave us a black discount card which had some 2-for-1 deals and told us to ask a concierge about promo deals for Jungala and Joya. Since we had not had any lunch and it was 1430 or so, we walked down to The Burger Custom Made located at the Grande Luxxe private pool, about a nine-minute walk from the lobby. We shared a Burger Especial and an Ensalada Flor Mexicano, and I had a glass of Long Island Iced Tea. Then we walked back to the Lobby and asked the bell boys to deliver our bags. We rode over to Tower Residence Two and got moved into our room on the first floor (#1734). The bellboy showed us how everything worked. We were fading but we decided to walk over to Jade and get some stuff for breakfast – fruit plate, granola, yogurt, cheese and tostadas – and lunch. It was raining hard when we came out and we had not carried along our umbrellas, so we waited for a while until there was a break and we walked back to the Grand Mayan where we caught a tram to our building. I was falling asleep and went to bed before 2000. It was kind of warm although the AC was set for 73-75 which felt cold when we came in from the outside.



12 Nov – We slept in until almost 0900. Then we had a light breakfast. I could not find the black discount card so eventually we went over to the GL Lobby and got Ana to replace it. She described the route to Salum, a new area with lots of beachside eating places located SE of the sales office building and south of the Beach Club pool and beach (which we are now allowed to use with our GL wristbands). We walked over and explored a little by walking through the Beach Club and around Salum (means "gathering place" in the local indigenous language) where most of the shops were still closed. At a little after 1100 we went to Quinto, a restaurant with a morning (until 1200) breakfast buffet for which we had a 2-for-0ne deal starting at 1100. We enjoyed a brunch of freshly made omelet and Mexican hot chocolate, etc. Afterward we wandered around the Beach Club a bit more and talked to the concierge about how one reserved a long chair or cabana. Back at our room we changed to shorts and swim wear and then started off to see what we could arrange for Jungala and Joya tickets. Enrique at the GL Lobby was able to get us a promo deal of $110/person for the show plus drinks and appetizers, a decent discount from the list price of $132. His computer wasn’t talking to Jungala so he couldn’t do those tickets and there were no deals on them anyway (except they were $59 for Vidanta members instead $79 for general public). In order to get the tickets printed at Jade, we had to go back to our room and get our passports. When we got to Jade, we had to wait a for another client to finish, and while we were waiting we noticed that Enrique had sold us tickets for Fri the 22nd, not this Fri! And we had signed right below where it said that there were no returns or changes permitted. Fortunately, the agent at Jade was willing to change the date anyway and gave us the same deal but on Wed at 2115 (take the 2045 shuttle) (4440MXN). Then we walked on down the path looking for a place to have a drink to celebrate getting Joya tickets for our anniversary present. We ended up at The Burger Gourmet Made again and had an appetizer bowl of ceviche and a Mono Chocolate and a Mud Slide. Then we walked down to the Grand Luxxe private beach,  and checked to see how clear the water was (not totally,
apparently the sargassum fence is working okay, but not catching all the weed). By then it was just about time to meet the Joy Squad for a tour of the Joya theater and a chance to watch part of a rehearsal. It was pretty cool to see it without all the color and fantasy of the costumes and music. We managed to stay out of the rain on the tour, but we were ready with our umbrellas this time, just in case. We got back around 1730 or so and C.J. got a shower. Then we took a tram through the rain to Salum where a Full Moon Party was scheduled as well as a Pre-Hispanic Show. Unfortunately, the thunderstorm and rain caused both of them to be canceled. We decided to have a light dinner of two tacos (al pastor and asada) a bowl of guacamole and a flight of four beers. Instead of walking in the dark and rainy night, we took the tram back to our room and caught up on our journals until almost 2200 when we called it a night.


13 Nov, Wed – Up around 0800, light breakfast then a walk around the Lake looking for wildlife. On the way past Mayan Palace 2-3 we saw a herd (!) of coatis pouring out of the jungle to where someone was tossing bread or something off a third-floor balcony. Otherwise, there were the usual captive crocodrilos, dark lizards and golden iguanas (but not as many as we had seen in previous years. The flamingos were not out where the public could see them. On the way, we stopped at Jade to pick up our Joya tickets but the printer only coughed out one. We had to come back and get the other one later. We ate at the somewhat crowded (even at 1100) Café del Lago where the food choices are more extensive (including a meat-
Iguana with Café del Lago in distance
slicing station) but the crowding kept us away from the egg station. Afterward we walked over to Salum and then took the beach walk all the way to the Grand Luxxe beach and a bit beyond to “Turtle Camp” where there is protected nesting sites for sea turtles. We hadn’t brought any water with us and were ready to get back into our room to get a drink, but the door wouldn’t unlock for us. We tried calling on the house phone and then walked back to the lobby where Enrique reset our wrist bands. That didn’t do it and we had to wait five minutes more for a security person to replace the battery in our door lock. After resting for a bit, we changed and walked down to the GL pool where we snagged a cabana and hung out until around 1600. C.J. took a short swim but the wind was chilly once you got wet. We got to use one pair of our free-drink coupons to have a Miami Vice and a blended Margarita. Just as it started to sprinkle, we headed back to the hotel and got in before the real storm arrived. We did a “dinner” in by eating some of our tostadas with cheese. Our Joya show was at 2115 and we had to get over to the Pergolado at Mayan Palace lobby to catch a 2045 shuttle to the Vidanta Theater. We had no problem getting from our hotel to the shuttle transfer station, but then there was a line of people. We got on the second shuttle so it wasn’t too long of a wait. We were early at the theater area but we wandered around looking at things before getting into line. Surprisingly we were ushered into the theater at 2115 and guided to our excellent seats right behind the VIP area. Our canapes and sparkling wine were ready for us and the waiter opened our bottle. We got to watch the dinner people open their chests and book containers where their food was placed while listening to the trio (plus sometimes a trumpeter, dancer and a singer) playing an assortment of music until they disappeared into the stage. The story line for Joyá was much the same as the version we had first seen a couple of years ago with the title character trying to recover the stolen, magical book for her grandfather, but the acts were different although similar- acrobats, aerialists, jugglers and trampolinists. One different act was a group of double-dutch jump-ropers. The show started around 2200 and we did not get out much before 0015. Then there was a really long line and a 30-min wait to get on a tram back to the pergolado and then a short wait to catch a ride to our hotel.  The weather continued stormy with some big displays of thunder and lightning during the rest of the night.



14 Nov, Thu – We slept in so late that we didn’t feel like we needed to eat even a light snack before we went to brunch at Quinto. We walked down through the Salum beach bar area and through the Beach Club. Then we took a short cut across the porch of the Vida Sales building. We checked in Jade with the Joyá agent about whether there was a place to view the Jungala complex. He agreed with other concierges that there was no way to preview it. We dropped in at the Spatium gym and spa to see what was free – all the workout machines, the sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi as well as the aroma shower. Back at the room we threw our umbrellas and drinks in my backpack and headed off to walk to the Grand Luxxe Jungle hotel buildings which run along the north edge of Jungala. We were able to follow a covered boardwalk with views through a chainlink fence of the Rio Lento/ Lazy River. At the end of the hotel structures we took the elevator to the top/3rd floor and got some views of people climbing flights of stairs to reach the entrance to some really steep-drop water slides. It was raining lightly so maybe that was why there did not seem like there were many people in Jungala. We retraced our steps and at the far SE end of Jungala we found a gate for staff to enter and exit the water park. Apparently the main entrance is in the opposite corner. It was close to 1500 so we walked past the Mayan Palace lobby to the Green Break snack bar. We had a Black Card freebie of guacamole if we bought a meal so we ordered a couple of drinks (Margarita and Green Dragon) and a Cuban Torta with fries and slaw. There were lots of different birds to watch on the empty and rainy golf course. Later the waiter came back and offered us a 2-for-1 Happy Hour special on drinks so we got two Margaritas. We staggered back to the condo stopping to check out the little alligators in a pond overflowing with golf course runoff. We ran out of boardwalks to follow and had to walk a short distance of road between the GL Jungle lobby and our GL Tower 2.


15 Nov, Fri – Up at 0730 to give us time to walk to our sales presentation at a new building near La Sombrita at Salum. We met with Esteban Trejo (esteban.trejo@kwmexico.mx) and ate breakfast at Quinto again, but this time at an upstairs
table. E took us to the building in Salum behind the “amor” sign and we went over the benefits of the ownership we had. Then he showed us what the next level would be. It was some crazy value like 1.2 million dollars, but then it would give us real ownership that could be sold after two years. We thanked him and were ready to leave when another rep joined us to explain that we had an active offer from two years ago on our file. Supposedly he wanted us to just decline the pending offer and go away since we had told E that we were not buying anything more. However, E took us to a model unit for the Grand Luxxe Royal Suite 1 Bedroom and explained that we could take advantage of the active offer by paying just the tax and closing costs for the $543,000 unit. (16 % of 543K was way too much, of course) He subtracted retail value of our ownership (227K) and paid us $6000 per week for each of two weeks for ten years (120K) to bring the cost of the unit down to $196,000. The tax was 16% of that, or about $31,360 (including the IVA tax of 4890) and the closing cost was $4073. That sounded doable and we were excited by the idea that after two years we could sell the unit for $543K or more depending on demand. Meanwhile we would have E rent out two of our weeks for $6000 each. If
everything works as expected, we should earn enough to pay for this purchase in three years. We used the Citi Visa to pay the down payment of $8864. That leaves a balance of $26,591 to be financed. [A long-term loan with Barclay or CapitolOne would allow small monthly payments while we received cash from the rental of our GL weeks.] We also turned over to Esteban the ten Ambassador certificates which are worth $100 each. We refused an offer to buy the Premium theme park package ($5000) but signed up for another Summerfest deal to visit Riv. Maya next November at Grand Bliss for $600 (Visa). Early on we learned a lot about how to use SFX and got our Diamond level renewed for two years. Our Platinum level with Vida Lifestyle was also renewed. At the very end after getting checked by Jean-Michel Bargoin (mscancun@vidavacations.com) we received a gift box with a Vidanta hat and a box of bath-soap flowers. It was close to 1730 by the time we were walking back to our GL unit. We changed clothes and then went to dinner at Frida’s (the evening version of Balché, the pool snack bar). We each had a Margarita made right at our table C.J.’s was maracuya and made with mezcal; I had a guava Margarita (and later a Dos Equis). C.J ordered a garlic shrimp dish and I had the Conchita Pibl. A trio of Mexican musicians with guitars and a harp entertained us until we left around 2000. Back at the hotel, I looked for an email from Esteban but there was none. I tried sending him an email but the address on his business card did not work and I received an error message 




16 Nov, Sat – There was a message from Esteban this morning that he sent at 2313 last night. He wants photos that we have taken to help in renting our weeks. We left for breakfast sometime after 1000 and stopped at the lobby to see if we could confirm that Ana had got us set up with a ride to the airport on Monday. She wasn’t in and another rep told us that we would have to see the concierge to get a voucher. We decided to wait and see Ana later. Just before we reached the Quinto, we ran into Esteban and told him we hadn’t been able to contact him because there was a typo in his email address. He asked us if we could meet with him at Salum between three and four. At the restaurant we got a seat outdoors where the air was not too hot, at least in the shade. A sunny day for a change! After eating we set off to walk north along the beach. The Vidanta beach crew were working on installing more sargassum fencing. We walked up to the GL pool
Grand Luxxe pool
area and tried to find a comfortable place to sit and take advantage of the happy hour prices on drinks. But there were no long chairs that were not taken. We settled on sitting in the lounge area between the pool and the beach Since no waiters showed up, we went back to the restaurant and ordered there, and Jonathan brought our Hurricanes out. After watching people playing Bingo for a while, we decided to continue up the beach. The water looked clearer in front of other resorts we passed and we could see the buildings of Cancun in the distance. Since it wasn’t yet 1500, we stopped at Brio to get the two-for-one deal on smoothies; the mango-maracuya drinks were excellent. Finishing our drinks as we walked, we made our way to Salum. Esteban was in a meeting and could not meet with us and sent a message to come back at 1700. We walked back to our suite by taking the long way around the lake where we saw several big, old iguanas, a croc, and the flamingo herd. After passing through the Mayan Palace lobby, we walked the road until we got a ride to the GL lobby. There we caught Ana who gave us a credit of 600 MXN to pay for the $15USD pp airport shuttle. Then Enrique got us on the schedule and gave us a ticket for the shuttle (Leaves 0930 from the Lobby Central; be 10 min early; have bellboys pick up luggage NLT 0900) We walked back to Salum and caught Esteban just a few minutes before 1700. We had a good talk about the Ambassador certificates, which weeks he would try to rent for us (Privilege weeks first since they have no blackout dates) and using SFX and Vida Lifestyle. Around 1800 we wandered through Salum looking for a place to eat. Since all of the open-air eateries have the same menu you can sit in the Robatayaki place and get food from the Tablas and Tapas place. We sat in Alorena and had flatbread pizzetta, BBQ pork rib and sweet-and-sour Brussel sprouts, beer and wine. It was pretty chilly in short-sleeve shirts but at least we had our fleece vests. We walked home along the lighted boardwalks and were back before 1930.

17 Nov, Sun – I had a restless night with concerns about paying for the Vidanta upgrade. We got up kind of late, went to breakfast at Quinto again. Afterward we watched the tractor and sargassum weed scooper clean up the beach after men
Sargassum beach cleaner
pulled in a couple of big netfuls of seaweed. We spent the afternoon at the GL pool mostly reading although C.J. did jump into the water (with her glasses and hearing aids!). I waded a little bit. We had a Happy Hour Miami Vice and later C.J. used a free drink ticket to get a glass of red wine. After 1630 we went back to the hotel and scheduled the luggage pickup at 0830
with the  concierge. Around 1830 we started over to the Quinto for dinner. We had rib eye fillet with pureed sweet potatoes and carrots, fresh bread and sparkling wine; everything was excellent . We couldn’t pass up the banana-peanut butter-fruit bread pudding that Ivan, our waiter recommended. Since it was our anniversary dinner, we did not have to pay for the dessert. We walked back to the hotel in the relative cool night air. At the concierge desk we paid our bill with the Citi Visa; it was more than we thought it would be at just about $400. We left tips for the day and night maids in the provided envelopes.


18 Nov, Mon – up at 0700, bellboys picked up our bags at 0830  and we left for the GL lobby where we caught a shuttle to the Lobby Central. There was a bit of a wait but at 0915 we were loading  into an unmarked Cancun Bay van for the trip to the airport. No one else was on the same shuttle, kind of a waste of gas. Check-in at CUN went smoothly and we had a longish wait until our flight boarded. While waiting, I remembered that the handle on my rollaboard would no
longer retract without opening it up and releasing a catch manually. I bought a roll  of adhesive tape at a drugstore and taped the catch mechanism so it wouldn’t pop out, a fix I found on YouTube. In Houston we used the new Global Entry kiosks which now just take a photo of you and issue a receipt; you no longer need to scan your passport or fingerprints. After picking up our checked bag and turning it back in, we shared a salad with grilled chicken at a small food court just before boarding. The flight to Seattle was twice as long as the CUN-IAH leg but we arrived a bit earlier than the 1941 ETA. I had put my Consumer Cellular SIM back into my phone and had confirmed our arrival with Randy and Diana. Randy was out of town but Diana met us on the upper/departures level. Meanwhile, I had checked recent emails and gotten a real shock – our KIA had been declared unrepairable and USAA had “totaled” it! It looked like we would receive an additional $6400. It was not a happy homecoming to say the least. We got home to a cold house and had a little supper before going to bed.

11 October 2019

Wintry Fall Week in McCall, Idaho

29 Sep - 6 Oct 2019
Bronze Bears at Lakeside Park, McCall
Again we had WorldMark points to use or lose so C.J. booked us a week in central Idaho. The thought was that we could enjoy the fall colors and explore the area around McCall with our new e-bikes, paddle Payette Lake and maybe Cascade Lake, and hike to viewpoints in the surrounding mountains. It would have been perfect if the weather hadn't decided to take an unusual turn and produce "lumpy rain" and snow, as well as below-freezing temperatures. We still managed to have a good time and were glad that Ginny and Wally were able to join us for two nights on their way to an eagle-banding session in Montana.


29 Sep, Sun – Yesss! We got up to dry, almost sunny weather so I pulled the wet tarp off the kayak (it had kept the cockpit covers dry) and started packing. After getting stuff packed in the wayback, I put both bicycles on the bike rack. We got started not too much later than our planned time of 0900 and had dry roads. We were surprised to see the snow level down to the surface at Snoqualmie Pass. Before we reached Ellensburg we started to run into showers. I should have stopped at E-burg but I pushed on into harder rain and then snow as we climbed Rye Grass Summit. I gave up and pulled into the rest area and detached C.J.’s bike, folded it and put it into the back seat area. I was actually glad that the rain had changed to snow so I didn't get too wet, but it was mighty cold out of the car. I didn’t want to cover the tail lights and have the cover bag flapping around so my bike remained unprotected (except where I had covered the display with several layers of plastic bag. We got off I-90 just across the Columbia and followed SR26 to Washtucna where we wound around through the Palouse to our stop at Costco in Clarkston. We picked up some chips and a rotisserie chicken and got gas (2.739) and motored on through Lewiston and up US95 to White Bird and Riggins. It was later than we had expected when we reached McCall (after a couple of construction delays) because we hadn’t taken into consideration the change to Mountain Daylight Time. Still, it was light when we checked in to WorldMark McCall shortly after 1900. We got a first floor room so we didn’t have to carry our bikes – and everything else – up to the second floor. After dinner we went back out to get some ice cream and some stuff that was on sale at Albertson’s.

30 Sep, Mon – When we got up late this morning the sun was shining but there was frost on the car and kayak; Google said the temperature was 27 deg. After breakfast and a visit to the WM desk, C.J. decided that she really needed to have some warmer gloves. The girl at Reception showed us where

Pioneer Cemetery near Secesh Meadow
 the thrift shops were so we headed into town. Toby’s Place was still closed at 1055 so we walked a bit farther to check out McPaws which had just what she needed. We also found out that Ice Cream Alley was closed for the season and that Toby’s had lots of stuff but no gloves. We also picked up a Titanium Sierra Cup, which I mistook for cheap, lightweight aluminum, for 99 cents, and a couple of other little things. Since we were in town, we went to the Ranger Station (in an old CCC building) and got some information, maps and Smoky Bear stuff. Since it was still early and the Warren Wagon Road along the west side of Payette Lake was open during lunch break (12-1300), we decided to do the scenic CD-narrated drive to Warren, about 44 miles. Rushing home, we threw in lunch and warm clothes and even swim suits and towels in case we thought Burgdorf Hot Springs looked inviting. We made it through the construction zone by 1245 and continued about 30 miles on the paved road over Secesh Summit and down the Secesh R. At that point we turned off to have a look at Burgdorf about 2 miles up the road that would eventually reach Riggins (although s sign said that the road was not passable for passenger cars 12 miles ahead). Returning from the very rustic-looking hot springs, we turned north on the Warren Wagon Road again and drove through an area of private land (Secesh Meadows) on somewhat rough gravel road. [We also took detours to the campground at Upper Payette Lake and a road leading to Chinook CG and a TH for the Loon Lake Loop.] Unfortunately, when we got near the summit of 6900ft Steamboat, the gas gauge was approaching ¼ tank and we had started out with only a half. We hated to do it (but hated worse the thought of getting stuck in the increasingly snowy forest), but we turned back only five miles or so from Warren. The trip back was uneventful; to avoid the construction we took the Eastside Road from the head of Payette Lake. It was unpaved for 4-5 miles, but scenic. Gas Buddy didn’t have many prices listed in McCall but we chose Maverik and filled up there in a snowy gust front (2.859). We returned the CD, and stopped at Albertsons again to get some strawberries, blueberries, choc. chips, and a couple of bananas, all on sale using my Safeway Club card. Back at the condo we rested up and then heated some quiche for dinner. Not bad for a day when the temperatures never got up out of the 40’s and the snow/rain squalls kept coming.

1 Oct, Tue – We woke up late and killed some more time making pancakes for breakfast (definitely not as good as the ones we make at home, but the plum syrup was good). Around 1130 we headed out to see if we could find a hike before the forecast afternoon showers (snow!). I drove along Spring Mountain Drive until we got to Lick Creek Road which we followed east past a much shrunken Little
C.J. at Duck Lake
Payette Lake. Beyond that, the road was unpaved and rather rough. We stopped at East Fork trailhead (at about 5400 ft) just beyond the same-named campground. I thought that this was the trailhead for the Snowslide Lake Trail, but a couple of trail runners told us that the shorter trail to Snowslide was up the road a few miles. When we got there (at about 5900 ft), we found that the first obstacle was a stream fording. I found it not too challenging as there were rocks placed a reasonable distance apart. C.J. did mot agree that the distance looked reasonable. Plus the trail on the other side of the creek looked pretty snowy. We decided to continue on up the road as far as the 6900ft Lick Creek Summit. Naturally, the snow started coming down heavily as we pushed on. There were only a few places where it was sticking on the road so we continued to the top and then down another 1.5 mi to the Duck Lake and Hum Lake trailhead (about 5500 ft). It was still snowing as we geared up in waterproof jackets and boots and headed along the relatively gentle trail. The trail description must have been outdated because the few creeks we crossed all had bridges; no slippery logs or stones this time. It took longer than a half hour to hike the mile-and-some to the lake (5800) and the snow was 3-4 inches deep in places, but certainly did not require snowshoes. At times the snow was coming down in almost blizzard intensity, and then at the small lake we got a few minutes of clearing. Concern about the road conditions kept us from stopping for lunch as it started snowing again. We were back at the car in less time than it took to get up, and I scooped the snow off the cockpit covers (Yes, we were still toting around the kayak). We stopped alongside the road on the climb back to the summit during a lull so that we had a view while we ate lunch. Then we drove back to McCall where the afternoon showers were over and there was some sunshine. We took it easy for a while and then went over to the pool to use the hot tub which warmed us right up. We had had enough exercise already so we did not take the bikes out for a short ride. Wednesday is supposed to have the best weather of the week so we will ride or paddle or both then (hopefully). Meanwhile C.J. had taken the meat off the carcass and started a chicken soup in the crockpot we had brought along. I had gone over to the office to read the trail descriptions in the office copy of a guide published in 2000. C.J. roasted our beets from the garden with a carrot and we had some rotisserie chicken.

2 Oct, Wed – Ginny texted from Winnemucca that she and Wally were checking out and would be in McCall in time to take us out for dinner. It had snowed again overnight. The roads were still too warm to get any coverage but the car and kayak had an inch or so and the trees in the woods were liberally dusted with snow. It was cold and our plans to go riding were temporarily on hold again. We frittered away the morning with looking at maps and checking email, etc. The sun was out but it was still not going to get up over 47 deg today according to the forecast. Around noon or so we decided to at least drive out along the Goose Lake Road (paved, leading to the Brundage ski area) and see what the weather looked like by the time we got to the Goose Creek Falls trail. It was sunny and still cold when we got to the big snowmobile parking lot that is the trailhead for trail 354 before the winter sets in. The trail climbed a small ridge and then went down, down, down 720 ft to a bridge crossing
Goose Creek, The Falls were about ¼ mile south from the bridge. We ate lunch looking down at the tumbling water and enjoying the sun. Two young men were leaving as we arrived; a couple showed up as we were leaving so it must be a popular trail. It took about forty minutes to reach the bridge on the way in and about an hour to climb out. When we got back to the condo the sun was still shining and it was only 1530. C.J. checked with Ginny and they weren’t going to get to McCall until 1800, so there was time for us to go for a short ride. We took the bike path along Spring Mtn. Blvd to Lick Creek and then the short distance east until the path ended. We rode back to the condo and had a drink and some snacks. Ginny and Wally arrived around 1830 and we didn’t go out to eat until after 1930. The Cutwater in the Shore Lodge was casual but pretty upscale, with a view from ground level of the lake (until it got dark). C.J. ordered a Vietnamese sandwich with Kurubatu pork and I got the bison brisket sandwich with a real pile of tasty French fries. Later I signed up with Fed-Ex Delivery Manager and had the Laithwaite’s wine delivery sent to Safeway Fed-Ex on site. Two delivery attempts had already been made.

3 Oct, Thu – After a slow morning of breakfast and getting ready, slowly, we drove out to the
Ginny, C.J. and Wally at Louie Lake trailhead


trailhead for Boulder Lake and Louie Lake. Louie had sounded marginally more interesting so we took the two-mile trail that led there. First we had to cross Boulder Creek on an improvised bridge of several small tree trunks, then the trail led up through bushes and forest to a jeep trail that went all the way to the lake. [The jeep driver who tried to make it up the whole way would have needed some big, knobby tires, but it was clear from tracks in the snow that dirt bikes had used the trail recently.] It
Louie Lake and Jughandle Mountain
took an hour and fifteen minutes to reach the lake (1.8mi according to AirTribune and a gain of 7-800 ft) and the view across to snowy Jughandle Peak. We had lunch on the lakeside slope of the earthen dam before starting back down. I had fewer issues on the way down and we arrived at the car in about 45 minutes. On the way out we noted that the McCall Zipline operation might have people working or zipping today. Instead of returning directly to WM, we drove into Ponderosa State Park and took the scenic drive to Osprey Point where we had a great view of the Narrows of Payette Lake in the hazy sunshine. Back at the condo we all rested and had something to drink and eat. Around 1930 we had C.J.’s chicken soup for dinner with rye bread and fruit salad. Later we had some ice cream for dessert.

C.J. and "Sharlie" at Rotary Park
4 Oct, Fri – We woke up to snow falling around 0730 and it continued all morning. Wally and Ginny got going started for Montana after 0900, then stopped in McCall to replace a headlight bulb (complicated, because on the left side, the battery has to be removed to replace the bulb). I found out that the Central Idaho Museum is closed for the season and the Ice Rink has a curling bon spiel going on (“Rocktober”).  So we just hung around the condo until after 1500 when the rain quit and there were a few flashes of sun. We drove into town and walked west on SR55 (which has no sidewalks!) all the way to the bridge over the lake outlet, almost to the Shore Lodge. My goal was to get a couple of pictures of the full-size playground model of Sharlie the Payette Lake monster at Rotary Park. On the way we stopped at a couple of fabric/yarn shops; on the way back we went into the Manchester Ice Rink and watched a bit of curling practice, then crossed the street to visit a nifty-gifty store and look in at Chapala Mexican Restaurant. We got sprinkled on while walking back but not enough to get wet. Back at the condo we tried mixing some hot apple cider with vodka, and with tequila, and had some more chips. Dinner was a replay of the soup with a great big heirloom tomato cut up into it. We watched the snow coming down again. We hoped for a dry night and Saturday so we could go do something outdoors, but probably not kayak in the cold temperatures.

5 Oct, Sat – It was cold and cloudy when we got up and cooked some pancakes for breakfast. Around 1000 (?) we headed off to do some car touring since it was too cold and damp for biking and kayaking didn’t even bear thinking about. I drove south to Donnelly where we crossed a couple of bridges to get on the west side of the Payette River and Cascade Lake. Almost all the campgrounds (State Parks) were closed at the north end of the lake and only one USFS CG was open and a couple of State CGs down near the southern end. We drove up to Tamarack resort which appeared to be undergoing a major growth spurt with lots of construction. There are many bike, walking
C.J. at WorldMark, McCall

and xc-ski trails that a sign said are complimentary. We continued south on unpaved West Mountain Rd to the south end of the lake where there are a lot of cabins once you get out of the public lands. In the town of Cascade we stopped to see Kelly’s Whitewater Park and The Strand, a 2.5mi bike/walking path along the river. We headed north up SR55 to Farm-to-Market Road which took us to historic Roseberry. It was off-season so nothing was open but we drove around to look at the school and teacherage, the barn and Finnish church. We took Roseberry Road back to SR55 and returned to McCall where we got gas at Maverik again (2.859) – this time we wouldn’t have to turn back before we reached Warren. There was only a short delay on the Warren Wagon Road so we made good time on the paved road up over Secesh Summit (ca 6400 ft) and down to the Burgdorf Jct. Then it was all unpaved, wet, sometimes muddy, and snowy as we climbed up to Steamboat Summit. We got to our high point of 6600’ from our last trip and then descended a bit and went back up. The road was getting pretty slushy with snow in spots so we were somewhat concerned about going all the way to 6900’ as the guide book indicated. But it turned out that Steamboat Summit was only 6600’ also. The descent wasn’t too bad and we soon were close to Warren. We stopped first at a trail leading to the Chinese cemetery, sort of a misnomer since the bodies were all removed so that they
Warren Hotel and Assay Office
could be shipped back to China to be buried with their ancestors. From there we drove along big piles of spoil from the dredges that worked the valley for gold. Warren was every bit as old-looking as you would expect a place more than 100 years old. We drove through what is now only a small town and stopped at a one-room museum in the USFS Guard Station. Then we walked around the crumbling Assay office, the Warren Hotel, and the Baum Shelter (an operating bar and restaurant). Since it was snowing on and off (but also showing blue
 holes occasionally), we decided that we had seen enough and headed back up toward the summits before the road could get any snowier. On the way, we were passed by a long caravan of ATVs as we climbed (must have been 16 or more); I’m sure they thought we looked just as strange as they did with our kayak on top of the Kia and far from any lake. We got back to McCall shortly after 1700 and stopped at Albertsons to get som
e grapes on sale. Back at WM we got started packing for our return on Sunday. C.J. added cauliflower to the soup, and heated up the last piece of quiche for dinner – “mustgos” for the last night.

6 Oct, Sun – Sunny day but pretty chilly as the car and kayak were covered with frost. We got up around 0730 and were on the road before 1000 MDT. The frost on the ponderosa pines south of New Meadow was spectacular. Too bad there was so much low cloud/fog so that we could not see the
Part of WorldMark McCall
mountains. Later it cleared up and was sunny all the way home. We made several pit stops to use the rest rooms and get a little exercise. We filled up with gas at Idaho prices at a casino just outside of Lewiston (2.749) and then turned north staying on US95 rather than going though Lewiston and Clarkston on SR12. That took us up the Lewiston Grade; near the top we stopped at a viewpoint on the old (1919) switchback highway. Back on the road we diverted from 95 on 195 instead of going to Moscow (should go there someday). That put us on the Palouse Scenic Byway. At Colfax we turned west on SR26 and continued through the Palouse until it abruptly ended at the Adams County line, not far from Washtucna. In Othello we used Google to find an ice cream place called Ricas Fruetas and Ice Cream. It had the usual selection of ice cream but also paletas/popsicles, milkshakes, smoothies and other, more Hispanic items. C.J.’s strawberry-banana milk shake was good and my Java Chip blended coffee drink was also very good. The prices seemed very reasonable (9). No one appeared to be flying at Saddle; not surprising since the wind was from the SE. We finally ran into Sunday traffic just beyond Cle Elum on I-90. It was slow but moving and we got home right after 1800, following a stop to pick up our Fed-Ex wine delivery at Safeway (about 9 hrs, with the GPS estimating 7hr 47mn). Strangely enough, our mail for the week (I assume) was in our mailbox even though I had received confirmation of the mail hold I had requested. After dark, when it looked like it might rain overnight, we got the kayak down from the car and put it on the back deck under its cover.

08 July 2019

Russia - Waterways of the Tsars

Viking River Cruise
24 Jun – 7 Jul 2019
Onion domes of the Kremlin in Moscow

 C.J. and I have wanted to do this Russian river cruise for at least a decade, but the cost and the political situation kept us from booking it. Recently we did a Viking river cruise on the Danube through Eastern Europe and, because the cruise was slightly disrupted by low water, we got a sizable voucher for a future cruise. Later Viking sent us an email offering a low sale price on this cruise so we jumped at the opportunity. Not only was the cruise price attractive, but we got  veranda room in the bow and our friends, Paula and Stephen, would be able to join us in a room right across the hall.


24 Jun, Mon – Up at 0230, we had some breakfast and were on the road by around 0330. We parked at ParkNJet2 using fourteen of our prepaid days. The shuttle and check-in at United went smoothly as did the TSA security line. We had aisle seats on our flight to Chicago so we didn’t see anything of the country we were passing over. At O’Hare we had to go from the terminal we landed
Matryushka doll souvenirs
Souvenirs
at to the International Terminal, a long way. There was a long wait for the shuttle bus before we got to ride to near our gate. Another couple, Ray and Janet recognized our Viking luggage tags and introduced themselves. They were going to Russia for the same cruise. When we boarded our Swiss flight, we found that we were seated in the middle of the center section, not something we had expected, and seats that we haven’t had to endure for a long time. We flew into the night and tried to sleep as much as possible. We did get two meals, an unexpected dinner (really unexpected since I had stopped to buy two sandwiches in Chicago), and a breakfast. During the night I woke up and realized that I had misplaced my glasses which I had taken off and stuck between the buttons on my shirt. Eventually I gave up and went to the bathroom to check if my glasses had slipped behind my back or something. When I got back, C.J. had found them in between the seats.



25 Jun, Tue - In Zurich we ran into a bunch of people who were also going to the same cruise. After getting from the gate at which we landed to Gate D, we just hung out until our flight started to board. For this Swiss flight we had window seats so we could see part of Switzerland, Poland, and the Baltic Sea before entering Russia and flying to St. Petersburg. We had a good view of part of
the city on the way into the airport. Passport Control went quickly and we went to get our checked bags. After a long wait, the sign on the conveyor indicated that all bags had been unloaded. Ours were not there. We weren’t the only ones so the line at the baggage claims desk was long and slow. It took us at least an hour and a half to get to the desk and get the forms filled out. Meanwhile, C.J. had found our rolling duffel on another conveyor, but there was no sign of my checked carry-on. The missing-baggage people were mystified because my bag did not show in their system as being missing. We got the paperwork stamped by the customs people (after getting sent back for a redo when my passport number was recorded incorrectly). When we exited Customs, we were met by a Viking representative and joined a group from a different flight. I took out 5000 rubles from an ATM (about 80 USD) before we walked out of the terminal to a big bus where we boarded and drove about 20 minutes to the Salt Pier where the Viking Akun was moored along with several other 
Tour Director Margo
Viking ships and other river cruisers. Check-in went quickly and we found our veranda (!) room on the 4th
(upper) deck in the bow, just behind the Panorama Bar which, we were told, is the quiet bar, unlike the Sky Bar at the stern. Our two bags were quickly delivered, and we unpacked (and I took a short nap) before going to the introductory briefing at the Sky Bar. Margo, the cruise director, Caroline, the hotel manager, and Leonidas, the chef, all spoke about what we could expect. By the time the meeting broke up the restaurant was open. We went back to our room before heading down to meet Paula and Stephen who had just arrived. Dinner was very good; we all had the regional specialties menu of salmon gravlax, beef stroganoff, and a local cream puff (plus a shared oatmeal, pumpkin and ? tartlet with lime sorbet). C.J. and I went to bed early.


26 Jun, Wed – We woke up early, around 0444 and really didn’t get back to sleep. I got up around
Viking Akun at the Salt Pier
0530 and took another shower then used an old packing list on my computer to make a list of what was in the missing suitcase. I took all my clothes from the previous day down to the reception to get them laundered before the ballet this evening. Meanwhile, I wore my wind pants, C.J.’s t-shirt and her Dog shirt and the one extra set of underwear and socks I had in the duffel. We went to the continental breakfast at the Panorama Bar at 0630 and stayed to write in our journals until about 0745. Then we went back to the room and down to have another breakfast in the restaurant, this time with Paula and Stephen. When we got back, my clothes were already returned from the laundry! There was a safety drill at 1015 during which we had to put on our lifejackets and wait in the corridor near our room until the all-clear was sounded. Our first excursion of a busy day was at 1045 by bus to the Hermitage. It took a while in the morning traffic and around a fender-bender accident. The line was really long and extended around the corner and halfway
Line around the block at the Hermitage
back along the rear of the Hermitage. The weather was overcast and there were a few drops of rain before we finally got inside. Then we had to go through the required bathroom break, the coat check and security check. An average of thirty-five thousand people per day visit the Hermitage so it was really crowded, and it was easy to get separated from our guide, Natasha. We spent about two hours touring the many rooms of the museum but saw really very little of the huge collection. When we got out at 1530, there was a wait for the bus then we returned to the ship. After a lunch/dinner in the restaurant. At 1730 C.J. and I dropped into the Sky Bar for an opera demonstration by two performers from the Mariinsky Theater. We didn’t stay very long as we had to get ready to go to our shore excursion at the ballet – Le Corsaire at the Mikailovsky Theater. It was interesting but a little frustrating as the storyline was not too clear to us non-ballet people. The theater, however, was very impressive, as was the dancing of the large company. We got back shortly before 2300 and skipped the late-night snack of goulash at the restaurant. I got to bed before 2330.


27 Jun, Thu – Since we had to leave before 0800, we had breakfast in the Panorama Bar where

Paula joined us. Then we took a bus to the village of Pushkin and the palace of Catharine (Ekatarina) the Great (aka Tsarkoe Selo). (With our guide Alexandra (Tascha or Alex). It wasn’t as crowded as the Hermitage, but there were plenty of tour groups there. We had to check our wet raincoats and umbrellas, use the WC, and go through security again. Then our guide showed us the restored (the original building was pretty well destroyed by the Nazis) rooms. When we got out at 1100, we walked through the gardens to Catharine’s Hermitage with its complicated system of dumbwaiters. From there we walked to the old stables and got on
On the Metro
the bus and returned to the Akun. We had lunch and then got ready to go on the walking
tour of St. Petersburg excursion at 1345. The bus took us to Proletariatskaya Metro station where we rode a looong escalator deep below the street level and then a short one a bit farther down. We rode the Green Line to Govinyi Dvor station (which had a large stained glass from the Soviet Era) in the shopping district and walked first to a WC in the Govinyi Dvor shopping arcade (one of the oldest malls in the world) and then to Nevsky Prospekt. There was a large, bronze monument to Catharine the Great in a park. Crossing the street using a subway we walked east a little way and went into a





Peter I (the Great) Monument













famous (and expensive) food store, 
KE Food Store
Kuptsov Yeliseyevykh (or Kupetz Elliseeus). We, of course didn’t buy anything but others did. Retracing our steps to the west, a side street took us past the block-long, expensive and historic Hotel Europa, then past the Mikhailovsky
Church on the Spilled Blood
Theater where we had seen ballet the previous night (bronze memorial statue of the Russian poet Pushkin). [On Nevskiy we saw a plaque commemorating the siege of Leningrad (with a replica loudspeaker which had warned of bombardments) and also the Armenian Church and a famous bookstore.]  We walked west again along the block-long Russian Museum then turned north(ish) to reach the Russian Revival-style (1881) Church on Spilled Blood, a shrine memorializing the assassination of Tsar Alexander II. After gawking at the many domes and colorful exterior (and looking briefly at the Souvenir Market), C.J., Paula, and I took a short walk in the Mikhaylovskiy Garden. When the group reassembled we headed west toward the Neva embankment and passed along the southeast side of the Winter Palace (Hermitage) to the entrance porch whose roof is held up by cyclopean (5m tall) Atlantes (rub the toe and make a wish).To the south we could look across the vast Palace Square to the arc of the General Headquarters Buildings and the triumphal arch/gate (topped by a chariot and horses) and the tall Alexander Column. We made our way back to the embankment and then through a park with a monument that everyone refers to as “The Bronze Horseman” (from a Pushkin poem). The park appeared to be a favorite place for teens in prom dress to photograph each other. Our last sight was St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the largest church in Russia, completed in 1858, 400 kg gold in the interior decorations (which we did not see). Most of us dropped into the Four Season’s hotel to use
Cossack Folk Concert
its rest rooms. Then we hopped (or climbed slowly) onto the buses and returned to the ship. By then it was 1830, so after getting cleaned up we went to dinner at 1900 with PandS. After a brief rest, we walked over to the large nearby tent for the Cossack cultural dance presentation at 2100 (one of the few excursions we paid for). I was afraid that I would be falling asleep but the show was so dynamic that we all stayed enrapt by the energetic performers. There was an intermission at 2145 where small glasses of vodka were passed out. Woo Hoo! The final numbers were just as good and included encores of “Only in the USSR”.



28 Jun, Fri – This was the only day for which we had no excursion scheduled. We thought that we might do our own canal tour of St. Petersburg and I had researched a company that provided hop-on hop-off service and guided narration in English for an order of magnitude cheaper than the Viking excursion. The only problem was getting to the embarkation point. Fortunately Viking provided maps and directions to get to the center of St. Petersburg for its passengers. After a late breakfast with Paula and Stephen (they didn’t have anything going on until the afternoon), we took our lunches (made from the breakfast buffet) and walked a couple hundred yards to a small bus terminal, caught the first bus and got off at the Lomonososkaya Metro station. We figured out how to use the ticket machines and got tokens for our trip to Govinyi Dvor. Our experience on the walking tour the day before had shown us which line to take and where to get off so it wasn’t too stressful. At Govinyi Dvor we must have gone out a different entrance because we came out right on Nevskiy Prospekt (first road in St. P, and now the major shopping street). We
"Masha and the Bear"
walked east and used the subway to cross to the other side. I checked out a couple of souvenir shops for a replacement hat since mine had gone missing; they were cheaper than the ones at the shop next to our boat dock but the shop that had one I liked was closed. We walked down to the Anichkov Bridge where we found lots of canal tour touts. We asked for an English-speaking narration and got sent to “the green guys”.
Anichkov Bridge
One of them brought us to the kiosk and got us settled on the AngloTourismo operation (the one I had researched). We were all set to pay when we found out that there was no internet so we couldn’t pay with our credit card. Oh well, there was a bank just across the Fontanka River and it just happened to be a Citi Bank. When I got to their ATM, however, I found out that I wasn’t carrying my Visa debit card; I had cleaned out my wallet due to all the warnings about pickpockets and had only my Citi credit card. I tried that but my usual PIN did not work. The bank let me use their phone to call Citi but the recording would not permit me to change my PIN over the phone. C.J. did not have her debit card either, so we added up our cash and had enough to buy tickets, but not enough to get back to the ship by Metro and bus. At the AngloTourismo kiosk we explained as best we could what our problem was and C.J. wangled us a discount of 400 rubles so that we could do everything. Since the boat wouldn’t arrive for 45 min, we took a walk back up
St. P. souvenir shop
Nevskiy and visited a couple of shops and took some photos, one at “Masha and the Bear”, a PECTOPAH (Cyrilic for "restaurant") with an old wooden statue of a bear. We got back to the boat landing before the 1230 boarding time and breathed a sigh of relief as we got on and settled into seats on the open aft deck with the included blankets (hardly needed since the day was unusually sunny for St. P., but the wind was chilly). It was a nice surprise to hear the almost unaccented English from the young narrator. He did a great job starting with the Anichkov
Canal Tour, Chain bridge and St. Nicholas
Bridge and continuing with every major palace, church, canal and bridge. Some that stick in my mind are: rivers – Fontanka, Neva, Kryukov canal, Moyka canal, Winter canal; places: Trinity church, St. Nicholas’ cathedral, St. Isaac’s cathedral, Stroganov palace, the Hermitage, Winter Palace, Sts. Peter and Paul’s fortress, the Summer Garden, and an island “built by Peter the Great” called New Holland. There were lots of other palaces and buildings and I have pictures to prove it but I’m afraid that the
St. Isaac's Cathedral
names didn’t stick with me. Once we returned to the boat dock at the Anichkov bridge, we decided to call it a day before we had any more bad luck. We walked back to the Metro station, (I skipped shopping for a hat because I hadn’t checked my down jacket yet) and I put a 200R note in the token machine. It coughed out four tokens and 20R change; apparently you don’t get a choice about how many tokens you get. Oh well, that’s less than $1.50 loss and C.J. can use the tokens in her future scrapbook. We eventually got seats together on the Metro and when we reached Lomonosovskaya, we found the bus just where it was supposed to be. [There was a small vegetable and flower market outside the station.] It didn’t take too long to get back to the bus terminal and to walk down to the ship. We stopped briefly at the souvenir shop but didn’t buy anything. At the ship we checked lost and found and got my hat back. Yay! I grabbed a cookie and some hot cocoa since dinner wouldn’t be served until 1945 tonight. We also drank some of the water we had been keeping cold in the room refrigerator. After sitting for a while on our windy veranda, we moved to the Panorama Bar and worked on our journals (until C.J. had to stop and take a nap). I continued until I had caught up and then I labeled today’s photos using Picasa. Later we met Paula (and Stephen?) in the Panorama Bar and C.J. and I ordered a ginger beer and a glass of Russian champagne. The drinks were served

with nuts and chips. Before we finished, a ship’s officer came around to invite each person to join the captain and officers for the welcoming toast. So we trooped up to the Sky Bar to join the crowd in the not-quite-big-enough room. After the ceremony we went to dinner with Paula and Stephen and Ray and Janet (whom we had met in Chicago-O’Hare). Even though it was close to 2200, the sun had not yet set and we were able to watch the shore of the relatively narrow Neva River zip past. At last we came to Lake
Ladoga (largest in Europe) and the big island fort (Shlisselburg (Oreshek) Fortress). The wind continued strong and the passage across the lake was not calm – not rough enough to keep us awake (although Stephen was bothered AND their outside door fell off).


29 Jun, Sat – I got up around 0700 and we ate breakfast with P&S before 0830. This time I tried the pancakes (not any better than the French toast I had yesterday). We had crossed Ladoga Lake and were now traveling up the narrow Svir River which seemed to be passing through mostly low birch and willow although we did pass a sizable town (20K+) with a highway and RR bridge and at least one lumber mill. We passed a couple of large river ships carrying small logs downstream. We all attended the
Viking River Cruise Map
presentation on Russia at 1000 by Margo and stayed for the next one on food and culture also by Margo at 1100. Then we went to lunch. We arrived at the open-air museum town of Mandrogy (M had been established as a cultural and tourism destination on the Svir in 1996, many years after a town of the same name was destroyed in WWII) 40 min before the ETA of 1330 and we hadn’t yet finished our lunches. We got off the ship around 1315 and C.J. and I set off to walk a loop around the town stopping occasionally to look at a building, garden or workshop. We watched the capstan-propelled ferry but didn’t know if we had enough time to cross the inlet to visit the mini-zoo, St. Elisha’s church, and "fairy tale glade". We did stop in a bunch of workshops where craftspeople were making matryuska dolls, batik fabric, felt, birchbark utensils,
Mandrogy
decorated wooden eggs, Christmas ornaments, woven fabric, and gingerbread (we bought a bear, 200R). We were back on the ship at 1530, a quarter hour before it sailed. Weather has been excellent, although it looks really windy. At 1600 Viking sponsored a get-to-know-your-neighbors event where we all went out into the corridor where our cabins are located and met the people who are next door to us. There were champagne, chocolate and strawberries served. At 1800 we went to the Port Talk by Margo about the destinations/excursions for Sunday. Then at 1815 there was a QandA session with the captain and his translator (which occurred as we were going through a lock). Dinner was at 1900 and we sat with Ray and Janet; Janet told us the story of how she, a young Chinese woman, escaped from Vietnam to the US when the US pulled out of VN. C.J. and I got to bed relatively early.

30 Jun, Sun – We got up around 0640 so we could eat breakfast at the Panorama Bar and make it to


the shore excursion on the island of Kizhi. The boat had already docked at Kizhi while we were eating breakfast and we somehow arrived late to the excursion and had to almost run to catch up to our guide, Nadia, who had the lead group. We caught up before the group got to the 21-domed Church of the Transfiguration and were able to get good photos. We could not go inside that church, but we were led into the Church of Intercession where we could see the iconostasis (eye con AHS ta sis), a wall separating the gathering place from the sanctuary. It was filled with icons much like we had seen in
Orthodox churches in the Balkans. As we continued along, we passed a man who was carving the curved aspenwood roof tiles with a very sharp broadax. We next toured a large house with a living room with a “red corner” for the house altar or icon where only men could sit [“red” in Russian means beautiful or sacred]. The kitchen was big, too, with a large
Sail-away caviar snacks
white porcelain heating stove. The house also included an area where the family cattle, horses and other animals wintered. Winter was really long for the residents as the latitude was only 500 miles below the arctic circle (or so we were told), about the latitude of Anchorage. We continued along the path to other buildings like the banya (sauna) right on the
Bark fence ties
lakeshore, and St. Michael’s chapel. And the fence constructed of slanting poles and tied with strips of willow bark. The scenery was excellent, the weather was sunny, and C.J. and I took lots of pictures. On the way back to the ship we stopped at a couple of shops. I bought a hat with Cyrillic script representing Kihzi. Back at the ship at 1030 there was a Sail Away party on the open-air sundeck with champagne, snacks and some crackers with cream cheese and red caviar with sides of sour cream, egg yolk and egg white. The sun made it pretty warm where there was no overhead cover. We had a Russian language lesson with
Tea time - with a samovar
Margo at 1115. Lunch with Paula and Stephen. The wheelhouse tour with the Captain and Alexandra was at 1430. Then, at 1500, there was an hour-long presentation on The Romanovs in the Sky Bar by tour escort Vadim – pretty dry but informative. It took us from the first Romanov selected from a meeting of 50 noble families to Nikolai II who was killed with his family when the Bolsheviks took over after the 1917 revolution. From there we went directly to the Panorama Bar for “Russian teatime” Dinner started at 1900 and there was no planned activity after that.
Our shadows on the lock wall
with cakes and other tea-time delicacies with hot tea. There wasn’t much time to do anything before our next Port Talk by Margo about the next day’s school visit, bus ride and monastery visit. After a little time to watch the lock passage in the warm afternoon sunshine and then write in our journal, we took advantage of an invitation to go to a Viking Explorer Society cocktail party in the Sky Bar at 1830. We sat at the bar with Paula and had sparkling wine with crème di Cassis (kir), and a shot of vodka.
1 Jul, Mon – We slept until 0700 – first time we got a full night’s sleep. We ate in the restaurant but didn’t have a big breakfast because lunch would be early to allow for getting to our included excursion at 1300 (1245 really). At 0900 C.J. and I (and Paula, although we didn’t know it) went to the second history lesson which covered 1917 to 1985 (Nikolai II to Gorbachev). After that we
passed a ruined and flooded church (Krokhino) on the bank of the Volga-Baltic Waterway. The ship docked early at Goritzy and we were able to go ashore to peruse the row of souvenir stalls. C.J. bought a nice sheer shawl. We had lunch at 1130 or so and then got ready for our excursion to the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery and a school visit. We first drove maybe five miles to a town where we visited the primary-secondary-senior school – all one building, class size about 20-25. A student with very good English guided us
Goritzy Classroom
around and then all the tour groups gathered in a small auditorium and there was a short dance demonstration by two young girls. After that there was a chance to buy some cute souvenir dolls, etc. Then we drove eight miles to the Kirillo-Belozersky founded by two monks, Ferapont and St. Cyril (not the one who invented the Cyrillic alphabet in the 9
th

century) in 1397. It is Russia’s largest monastery, or rather seven
Part of Kirillo-Belozersky
monasteries within one fortification. One reason for the monastery’s success was that Ivan the Terrible was a patron and made large donations. The monastery was closed down by the Bolsheviks in 1924 but was not destroyed and remained open as a museum. The icons we saw in the museum were well preserved. From there we took the bus through part of the North Russia National Park (just low trees) and on a gravel road to where the ship had docked in the tiny port of Kuzino. There was a row of souvenir stalls with some of the same vendors and C.J. bought a pair of low wool socks from one of the Goritzy vendors. That puts us just about out of funds so we hope that we’ll find an ATM in Yaroslavl, our next stop. When we got back to the ship we all received a glass of “Russian lemonade” which tasted much like sweet apple juice. After an hour of relaxing, C.J.
Viking Akun Dining Room
attended a live demonstration on how to prepare Pelmeni (a kind of meat-filled dumpling) in the Pan. Bar with Chef Leonidas. I continued working on my journal and labelling my photos. Later we went to dinner with Paula and Stephen and sat in the stern where the noise from the engines made it too hard to hear the conversation with Maggie and Mike from England. We did get to order the Pelmeni, but not the handmade ones that C.J. had helped with at the demo (and received her very own chef’s hat). C.J. had the shashlik and I had the ahi tuna, sadly neither had very much flavor compared to other times we had had those dishes. Back at the room, there was a bit of noise from the Pan. Bar where there was a vodka-tasting event going on, but nothing that kept us from going to sleep.
2 Jul, Tue – I woke up to go to the bathroom around 0530 and then stayed up to see the Mother
Mother Volga Monument
Volga monument. I first found it on Google Maps and saw that it was at the tip of the approach to a set of locks. Then around 0545 we got a wakeup call from Guest Services , which we had asked for last night. Since we would pass the statue on our starboard, we went out through our sliding glass door to our veranda and then through another sliding door to the main upper deck companionway that goes around the outside of the Pan. Bar. There were a few other people out, but not a crowd. I used my 10x binoculars to spot the monument, and when we got close we took a bunch of photos. The lock lowered us down to the Volga River. In a while we passed another monument on the port, a memorial to the Cosmonauts, “to the conquerors of space”. I didn’t take a picture because I did not have my camera or phone but there are images online. C.J. and I waited for the restaurant to open at 0730 before having breakfast. It was one of the best breakfasts because I ordered two fried eggs and a single slice of French toast. At 0900 we went to a history presentation by Sasha on the Soviet Union, mostly about Mikhail Gorbachev (and Perestoika (restructuring),
Monastery near Tutaev
Glastnost (openness), Democratization and Acceleration). Around 1100 we sailed past a scenic town (on both sides of the river connected by a ferry), Tutaev. It had beautiful churches and a nunnery (photos). Shortly after 1300 we arrived in Yaroslavl and went ashore. I had a hard time keeping up with the group since it was right after lunch. We climbed a stairway to reach the top of the embankment and walked south to the old Governor’s House (now Museum of Fine Arts) where there was a display of the papier-mache lacquered boxes under several tents. They were very expensive, small boxes costing in excess of $300. From there it was only a short walk to the Church of Elijah the Prophet a very-well preserved church built in the 1650s. It has many of its original frescoes and managed to survive the Soviet era as a museum. It’s located on a large city plaza called “Red Square” or Sovietskaya Pl. Across the plaza is the Yaroslavl Region Duma building. Behind the Duma is the modern(1892) chapel of Alexander Nevskiy, a red brick building constructed in the style of the 17
th


Yaroslavl Bear with Axe (and us)
century. Our guide, a former head of the Soviet Intourist agency, left us there for a hour of free time. C.J. and I walked down the pedestrian shopping street ul. Kirova and got 5000 rubles from an ATM, then stopped in a café to use the rest rooms [This appears to be perfectly acceptable in Russia]. We were looking for a bronze bear sculpted holding a battleaxe that was the mascot of the city, but we missed it and continued across a street and through a tunnel and then back around the block to Deputatskaya ul. Some other Viking passengers pointed us in the right direction to find the bear and we got some photos. Then we went to the city market just down the street from the Nevskiy Chapel. We bought a bag of dried fruit and candied ginger, etc. (as if we needed any more food, but the price was good). We walked through the outdoor part of the market although it had started to rain lightly. Back at the chapel we went south with our guide passing City Hall and a church (maybe St. Mikhail).  Then we walked east following the course of the Kotorosl River which flows into the Volga. We passed a stadium and could see a park and amusement area on an island in the river. From a Rotunda, we could look down on a planted bed in the shape of the Yaroslavl bear with an axe. Back to the NW we could see the new cathedral built just a short time ago by a large donation from a businessman. The Cathedral of the Assumption (or “Dormition” as the Orthodox call it) was
War Memorial and new Cathedral
completed in 2012, replacing a previous church destroyed by Stalin. We were able to go inside to see the new frescoes and iconostasis. Continuing along through the park we came to a monument that framed the view of the cathedral, the Eternal Flames stands between the Memorial to the soldiers of WWII and the Monument to those lost in the Great Patriotic War – a total of 27 million. We turned toward the Volga (east) at a tall column crowned by a two-headed eagle [it may be a memorial to those killed in the White Guard Mutiny or Uprising] and passed a house that was seen in Dr. Zhivago. We returned to the ship along the embankment sometime after 1700. We went to the Port Talk by Margo at 1800 to learn about Uglich. Dinner at 1900 with Paula and Stephen and Linda and Mike who are REAL travelers with lots of interesting stories. Back at our room we got to bed early again because we were beat from all that walking – C.J.’s fitbit said 6.5 miles.

3 Jul, Wed – Up at 0545 so we could be ready for departure around 0745 for our home visit and tour
Iconostasis in the Church
 on the Blood of Prince Dmitry
of the kremlin (fortress) of Uglich. Our group went first to the home of our hostess. We all sat at a long table (15-16 of us) and had three toasts with bilberry moonshine, some potatoes and pickles. Then we had tea and a homemade cranberry coffee cake. There was some Q and A and then we went outside to see the quite large kitchen garden. We re-loaded the bus and returned to the entrance to the kremlin near our boat dock. Olga, our guide took us through the light rain mixed with sun to the Church on the Blood of Prince Dmitry (who was canonized in 1605) [There’s no way to tell, but the eight-year old son of Ivan the Terrible was probably murdered by Boris Godunov’s servants (and then the 12 servants were all killed by the queen’s men or stoned by the townspeople – as shown on one of the frescoes. The “official” cause of death was “the will of God, he died of an apoplexy attack while playing mumblety-peg”.] We also saw the old dwelling of the prince. The Cathedral was open and we saw the frescoes and iconostasis. Our guide dropped us at the bridge over the moat and we
Souvenir stands
headed back toward the boat passing through a very long gantlet of souvenir sellers. C.J. bought two pairs of thick wool socks with bear patterns. We were back shortly before the special luncheon of Russian foods was served. We ate with Paula and Stephen in the Pan. Bar which didn’t have all the selections but had most of them. Around 1500 the Akun passed close by an abandoned church bell tower near the town of Kalyazin. At 1545 we joined half of the passengers for a tour of the serving part of the kitchen led by Chef Leonidas. It was an excellent tour and answered some of our questions that we had after seeing the tiny kitchen on the Danube cruise. This time we learned that there was a
Chef Leonidas on kitchen tour
food preparation kitchen two decks down that is 5-6 times bigger than the serving area we saw. Plus we got a shot of Beluga vodka. From there we went to the presentation by Alexandra on Putin and Medvedev. Her speaking style did not suit our way of thinking as it was somewhat “non-linear”. I stayed for the whole thing but C.J. left early. There was no port talk – there’ll be one tomorrow since we don’t dock at Moscow until 1300. We dressed in our best clothes for the Captain’s Farewell Toast at 1900. We clinked glasses with all the department heads and then continued to our tables for dinner. Terry and Norma from Ontario near Niagara Falls joined us. C.J. had the chateaubriand and I had a miso marinated cod. The steak was very good and the dessert, a chocolate-cherry surprise was excellent.
4 July, Independence Day, Thu – After breakfast we went to an extended daily briefing which covered disembarkation details as well as the shore excursions for the next three days in Moscow. Right after that, at 1030, Vadim, Sasha and Alexandra presented a round table discussion on Russia Today. During the morning we stopped motoring along the Moscow Canal (connecting Volga with Moscow R) and anchored for an hour or so across from a zoo park. That was designed to get us to our mooring location at the right time – shortly before 1300. At noon the restaurant presented a Fourth of July lunch complete with BBQ ribs, baked beans, corn on the cob and a decorated US flag cake. The ribs were good. Our shore excursion – a walking tour of the center of Moscow – departed at 1330. By then the weather had settled on cloudy with an occasional shower and cool
Moscow Metro sign
temperatures. We wore our down jackets and carried our rain parkas. We took a bus just as far as the top of the hill leading out of the North River Terminal, then we walked about a kilometer through a park, under the Leningrad Highway, and along a closed-for-construction park to a small shopping area and the Reknoy Metro station. We took Metro (much noisier than the St. P Metro) seven stations to
Bronze in Dynamo Sta.
Mayakovskiy station where we got off to look at the marble-clad walls and mosaic vaulted ceilings. We also took escalators to other stations or terminals to see the bronze bas-reliefs of Dynamo Station and the white marble of Teatralnaya. We re-boarded the Metro Green Line train and rode two stops to Kropotkinskaya Station where we came out at the huge, new (consecrated in 2000) Cathedral of Christ the Savior. Our group and many other people and groups walked around the exterior of the Cathedral and went out on a bridge over the Moscow River for views of the Kremlin, the Cathedral, the monument of Peter I (the Great), and the Stalin-empire-style Foreign Ministry Building (and a bunch more that I can’t remember). Next we were allowed into the Cathedral but photography was not permitted. From there we walked north past the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts and the Lenin Library (now renamed to Library of Russian Federation (?). Then we walked through a park that abutted the west walls of the Kremlin and the Arsenal and passed the silent and rigid guards at the Memorial to the Heroes of the Great Patriotic War (and others?) with its eternal flame. Just beyond that we could see the equestrian statue of Marshal Zhukov and in the distance the glass dome-topped Hotel Metropole. Turning right we climbed a cobblestone road to the entrance to Red (“beautiful”?) Square. We may have come in through the Resurrection Gate (?). On our left was the huge expanse of the GUM (goom) department store, and on the right was the Senat Building and the Presidential Palace (name?) with Lenin’s tomb in the foreground. St. Basil’s Cathedral appeared little by little as it was downhill from where we stood. Our guide took us to the SW corner of GUM and told us to meet in 70 minutes. Then she said there was ice cream in the department store so we followed her in and stopped at the first ice cream stand where we bought one machine-scooped cone (100R) and ate it as we wandered through the hallways lined with expensive internationally-known stores. We exited at the far end on the decorated Nikolskaya and spotted President Putin sitting on a bench outside! A second glance noted that he was sitting next to Comrade Stalin – another photo op scam. C.J. and I went down to St. Basils and walked around the building; our guides had told us that the interior was not worth waiting in line to buy tickets. After a quick bathroom break (free!) we joined the rest of the group. We walked downhill to where our bus was parked. It wasn’t a long drive to the Writers Club Theater but there was plenty of time to eat our box lunch as traffic was heavy. We drove right by the US Embassy but there wasn’t anything special to see. There was a bit of a wait to get into the hall, but the wait was worth it because the small Russian folk orchestra was excellent and individual performances were stellar. Everyone enjoyed the old guy dressed in bright red folksy clothes who could make music on just about anything, including a saw. There were also dance numbers as well as solos by balalaika, domra and accordion players. C.J. had a moment of panic when she thought her hearing aid had slipped out of her ear. We couldn’t find it even using Stephen’s mobile phone flashlight.  We left around 2030 and C.J. found her aid on the bus in her pack. She had taken it out so that the “Whisper” fit in her ear. We didn’t get back to the ship until 2130 due to the extended rush hour. But the restaurant had held up dinner and we were able to eat again. Just what we needed – more food.
5 Jul, Fri – C.J. and I had nothing scheduled until the Moscow by Night excursion at 2130, so we ate breakfast with Stephen in the restaurant. He and Paula were going on the excursion to the Jewish Museum. We decided to take a walk in the nearby park. We found a different route through the woods and gardens to Leningrad HWY, crossed under it and followed the sidewalk around the other side of the park to the Recknoy Metro station. We checked out a market with many different food stores (like the one across from our hotel in Barcelona). Then we started walking along the edge of the under-construction park. We found a couple of lakes with ducks, lots of pigeons and little birds and some gray ravens. We managed not to retrace our steps until we got back to the Metro Station and then followed our earlier route back to the ship. C.J. easily got 10,000 steps on her Fitbit. I hung out in the Pan. Bar trying to remember all we had seen and done in the last day and a half. We got our preliminary bill from Viking for gratuities and a couple of drinks - $611, urk! The gratuities are
calculated on this cruise as $25 per person per day, much higher than we’ve paid on ocean cruises (and on our previous Viking river cruise). C.J. and I spent part of the afternoon filling out our questionnaire and C.J. did some packing. We had another couple share our table for dinner again; he was from France and was somewhat hard to understand. The pork tenderloin was very good and so were the celery soup and shrimp salad. Lava cake was a winner even though it was spelled “lave”

on the menu. We thought our “Moscow by night” tour was leaving at 2130 so we weren’t ready when the announcement came at 2045. We had to rush to get on clothing appropriate for cold and wet weather. Fortunately, there was only a sprinkle of rain on the whole trip. We bussed into Moscow center and went first to Victory Park which had a big MOCKBA (Moscow in Cyrilic) spelled out in lights beside a huge clock. There was a line of fountains lighted with red floodlights and many monuments to the soldiers and battles of WW II. One was a very tall column with some symbol on top and then some angels (It’s hard to remember all the details). As we got there it was still sort of light but as the sky darkened, more lights came on. We re-boarded the buses and drove along some of the route we had walked on the Moscow Up-Close tour – St. Vladimir statue, Lenin Library,
GUM at night
Revolution Square (?), and then down the backside of GUM and near St. Basil’s. I thought we would park in the same spot but instead we drove over the Moscow River, made a U-turn and came back to park. Then we got off the bus and walked into Red Square. There were lots of floodlights so St. Basil’s was all aglow as were the spires  and towers of the Kremlin. GUM looked like a giant gingerbread house. We didn’t get down to the other end to see what Nikolevskiy Street with its hanging decorations looked like. Soon enough we were back on the bus for the short drive to the boat landing. We had a wait while two boats unloaded and loaded, then our boat arrived. It was small enough that it fit our busload perfectly with everyone sitting on the upper/outdoor deck. We had blankets to wrap up in, good thing because it was pretty chilly. I pulled on my rain parka over my fleece and put on my wool hat from Peru. We headed down (?) river passing the Peter the Great Memorial, the new Cathedral of Christ the Savior
Peter the Great Mon.

Kremlin from Moscow River
and the cantilevered observation platform. When the boat turned around, we cruised past the same stuff going the other direction and then continued a bit farther so we were beneath the walls and towers of the Kremlin. The tour was pretty short – about as long as the ride back to the North River Terminal and our Viking ship, arriving around 0100.
6 July, Saturday – We spent some time in the morning filling out our questionnaires and getting partially packed up for departure early (0500) on Sunday. After lunch C.J. and I went down to Guest Services and asked if we could reduce the amount that was set for gratuities to something like we had paid per person per day on the Danube cruise.  [Later, Paula told us that they had done the same thing.] At 1430 we joined the group touring the Kremlin. We got a good guide, Ksenya, who was easy to understand. I’ll
Huge Kremlin Cannon
need to find a guidebook to help remember what we saw, but among them were a bunch of cannon barrels including a huge one in front of a palace meant to overawe some visiting barbarians. There was also the largest bell in the world; but it was broken and sitting on the ground so we didn’t hear it bong. The Cathedral of the Assumption (Dormition to the Orthodox) was the largest church and we were able to go inside. The walls and columns were filled with frescoes as was the iconostasis (eye
Cathedral of the Assumption
con AHS ta sis). We also went inside the Cathedral (?) of St. Michael the Archangel which is where many of the tsars and princes of the two Russian dynasties are buried (including St. Dmitry). [One fresco of a saint showed a man with the head of a dog. St. Christopher was too handsome and women kept following him; he prayed to God for help and received the dog head. Weird story!]  The other major building on Cathedral Square was the separate bell tower of the Assumption Cathedral; it had three architectural sections. We exited the Kremlin through the garden and walked out of the Saviour Gate past St. Basil’s. Just as we got to the street where our bus was parked it began to pour. We were lucky to have our raincoats and a big, red, Viking umbrella. Even so, our feet got
Viking group leaving Kremlin
wet. Our bus arrived in a few minutes and we shook off as much water as possible so we could dry out somewhat on the way back to the ship. Traffic was much better, only getting backed up due to construction right near the North River Terminal. There was a goodbye gathering in the Sky Bar at 1845 with Margo, and C.J. got an appropriate drink – a Moscow Mule. We had dinner with Paula and Stephen and then went upstairs to get packed up. We went to bed early and hoped for some sleep before our alarm and a wake-up call got us up.
7 Jul, Sun – My mobile phone alarm woke me at 0345 and the wake-up call from the desk came shortly thereafter. I stuffed my fleece vest and pajamas in the rollaboard that I was going to check and took a shower while C.J. put our bags out in the hallway before 0400. The usual continental breakfast was available at the Panorama Bar right next to our room and Stephen was already eating. Paula and I went downstairs to pay for our drinks from the previous night. I paid in rubles. We said goodbye to Paula and Stephen as they had an 0430 departure and they were going to a different airport, SOV. We were headed to DME, about an hour away and on the other side of the city. Our full-size bus left at 0500 [Paula and Stephen had a large van with only a few other people; maybe they were all flying Delta to Paris, CDG]. We got to DME around 0600 and porters unloaded our bags and brought them to the counter and even lifted them on to the scales so there was a small tip expected. Check-in went smoothly; our boarding passes showed our seats all together and not in the dreaded center section. We had to go through a cursory security check to get into the airport, but there was a serious TSA-type check when we went upstairs to get to our gate. Then we passed through the green lane for customs (nothing to declare). The passport control took a little longer as they really scrutinized the passport and visa, even using a magnifier. But then all we had to do is pass through a bunch of duty free stores to reach our gate. Ray and Janet were on the same flight, as were some other Viking cruisers. We got a meal on the Swiss flight to Zurich. Once there, we had to transfer to another terminal and we took a train to get there. We were serenaded with alpenhorns and cow moos as we made our way through the tunnel. We had only a little over an hour in Zurich before we boarded a giant Boeing 777 for the flight to Chicago. C.J. and I both watched the Wizarding World “Crimes of Grindelwald” which had a non-ending. Clearly there are more adventures of Newt Scamander to come. We were served two meals on this Swiss flight which took nine hours (or was it crossing nine time zones?). In Chicago we had a long layover – something close to four hours. Although we weren’t very hungry, I got a McDonald mocha frappe after we cleared the Immigration, got our bags and passed through Customs. The last flight was on United and was a relatively small 737. This time we had a window seat but there really wasn’t much to see and C.J. spent much of the time sleeping. We arrived around 2230, collected all three of our checked bags (we had been seated near the rear of the plane and boarded in zone 4 so most of our zone had to gate check our bags). The shuttle arrived promptly and filled right up (and the next one would fill up also because there was a group of nine waiting for a ride). The shuttle took us into the self-park area where there was a tent set up for getting our keys. Our car was parked just a few steps away. We got home before midnight and had a good long sleep (although I had another session of being confused about how to find the door to the bathroom one time when I had to get up).
We felt our long-delayed Russian river cruise was a great success. We had an excellent stateroom, the food was good, and we got to travel again with Paula and Stephen. Russia was surprisingly interesting, scenic and historic. Of course, we saw only a fraction of the huge country. We probably will never go back to try to see more but we do think an ocean cruise to the Baltic capitals might be in our future.