Years ago Dennis Pagen visited Slovenia and told us what a great destination it was. C.J.'s fellow teacher took a trip there and raved about it. Matty Senior and Heather went last year; Matt and Steph Cone went earlier this year. When Steve Roti announced his plans for a paragliding trip to Slovenia and invited us, we jumped at the chance. We didn't regret it, just wished we had gone sooner before the Euro became the currency and prices ballooned.
15-16 Sep - We flew Austrian/United to Chicago, then Vienna, then a turboprop hop to Klagenfurt, Austria (Karnten). Brett, owner of xTc Paragliding based in Sorica, Slovenia, our guide, met us, Dan Wells, and Nico's wife and daughter, Jeanne and Jessica just outside the arrival area in the tiny airport.
He gave us the scenic drive back by going over the Lobil Pass instead of taking the autobahn through the 8-km tunnel into Slovenia.
Whimsical woodpile near Lobilpass
17 Sep - Our base was in Ribcev Lav, a small village at the end of Lake Bohinj, a noted destination for hikers and other nature lovers. We bunked in the apartment hotel Triglav (photo, right) which had rudimentary cooking facilities in each room so we (photo, above right, Apartment Hotel Triglav, Storza Fusina)
Our first flights were at Gozd, not far from Jessinica where we had a 15 min walk up a trail to the privately owned launch. Unfortunately (or fortunately considering how jet-lagged we all were) it was not very soarable and we all had two short flights.
18 August - Our next flight, however was from the world-famous Kobala launch near Tolmin and it was definitely soarable. Most of our group got up high above launch and flew from ridge to ridge above the emerald-green Soca River past Kobarid to a turnpoint at Stol Pk, about 27 km from Kobala. Then we turned around and flew back (some) to the landing zone (LZ) at Tolmin. It was the high point of our Slovenian flying (although we didn't know it at the time - we were thinking that everyday would be a cross-country day!). The photo below shows the view west towards Stoll from Kobala with Tolmin and its conical hill and fortress in the near distance.
To get to Tolmin from Lake Bohinj, one could take a road full of hairpin turns and logging trucks over the Sorica
19 August - We went back to Tolmin but the wind was unconducive for another cross country flight. Our guides suggested a quick flight to the LZ just beyond the conical hill and fortress (photo, below) and then a trip to another flying site.
An hour's ride put us near Nova Gorica and the Lijak (lee yock) ridge but, after a stop to assess conditions, Brett decided that the Kovk (pronounced like coke) ridge would be a better bet. Soaring the six miles of vertical limestone walls in the late afternoon sunlight was another highlight of the trip. The clifftops were a mix of forest and
meadows delineated by white rock walls - very scenic.
And the food and drink a short walk from the LZ at Pizzerija Anja made a perfect end to the day.
20 Aug - Wednesday - After a late start the group headed for the lift above Lake Bohinj to fly the Vogel site. Unfortunately, we were too late and the wind turned "over the back". To add injury to insult, it started to rain as we were on our way down on the chairlift. Later, the sky cleared a bit and we went back up to find that the wind was still OTB. We didn't even get off the chairlift - jus
22 August - Fri - Back to Tolmin with great plans to go deep to Krn Peak and jump to Stoll and fly at least to the Italian border and back. However, conditions were not the same as on our first Tolmin flights and many of us "dirted" early after trying to push too far too fast. Tina and Steve were the only ones to make the task. We watched and listened to them on the radio from a cafe in Kobarid until the van picked us up. Still, it was a heck of a lot better than another day at one of our local NW sites.
Because it was Friday, the queue for the train was longer than usual and we had to take the windy, mountain road through Sorica. We stopped for dinner at "the fish place" on the way and had some interesting dishes including a "fisherman's salad" which seemed to be German potato salad served cold. Good though!
23 Aug - Sat - Rain was the forecast and, sure enough, it rained on and off all day with occasional thunder and lightning as well. We did some equipment repair, downloaded/uploaded tracklogs and photos, and got some rest. Most of the group went to Rozle, a pizza place in Ribcev Lav for dinner and we had some Croatian (?) dishes Cevapcici (small, hamburger-stuffed sausages) and raznijici (turkey on skewers), both of which were very good. Steve had discovered Radler, a drink with a mix of beer and lemonade or other soft drink, and turned us on to that a few days ago so that had become our drink of choice.
25 Aug - Mon - Today we got the Austria trip. It was about an hour or so to drive there once we got the bakery, petrol, banking and whatnot done. Like Vogel, there was a gondola and then a chairlift to the summit. It was
26 Aug - Tue - Took the car train to Tolmin for another XC attempt but it was blown out. Our resourceful guides headed us off to Lijak where it might be possible to fly the SW-facing site even though the upper level winds were strong NE. We shared the launch with a party of Czech pilots and, when their leader launched and soared, C.J. and I, Reed and Dan got ready to go, too. We were mindful of the NE winds and when the air got turbulent suddenly, we went out to land finding strong ground wind from the SW. Later most of the rest of our group launched and had long, high flights. We headed back early enough to have a farewell banquet at Gostilna Rupa and the food and service were just as good this time.
27 Aug - Wed - Brett arranged to have Urshka (sp?) borrow her father's car so she could drive the three of us to
28 Aug - Thu - After a hearty breakfast buffet (after all, it was a climber's hut), we scoped out the flying possibilities and some of us started right from the Rifugio to hike the paved trail/road to Col Rudella and the take off. C.J. and several others drove down into Campitello di Fassa in the rented van and took the gondola up to launch. I was about ready to take off around 1100 when they reached the top. My flight took me to Sella Pass
29 August - Fri - In the morning many of the group hiked up to fly one last time before heading back to Venice and the flight home. We decided to skip the flight since the previous day's had been so incredibly good. Instead
30 August - Sat - Mauro forecast high pressure and late launching if we wanted to soar and try to go XC, but we
opted for a morning hike to a small col above the Rifugio where we could look down on students taking off for top-to-bottoms. Since it still wasn't soarable by the time we had returned and loaded up the car, we decided, based on Mauro's suggestion to head for Sillian in Ost-Tirol. The route through the mountains was, as usual, beautiful. We saw people flying at Sexton/Sesso but continued on across the bo
rder to Sillian where we stopped in at the TI to find a place to stay. They arranged a nice apartment for us and we moved in for three days at Haus Margreth. (ad, right)
Later we drove to the Blue Sky LZ and met some pilots from Germany who spoke good English and gave us good advice about flying and where to eat. We arranged to meet Michaela and her boyfriend Jurgen and their friend Michael at the Blue Sky shop in the morning. Even though people were flying, it looked awfully windy, so we decided to get cleaned up and go for an early dinner at Gasthof Burg Heimfels, a traditionally-decorated inn just beneath a ruined castle at the edge of town - great food and ambiance.
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31 Aug - The Blue Sky shop was busy in the morning as a tour to Lake Como was leaving as we arrived (Jurgen had just returned late yesterday from one to Umbria). It was a full-service shop, for sure, with wings, harnesses, flight suits, instruments and clothing. In fact, it was a Swing demo center and also provided other demo wings
1 Sep - Sun - Back to Obertilliach but this time we walked down from the lift terminus instead of up, and it was
2 Sep - Mon - With our wings packed as airline luggage, we departed Sillian along the Hochpustertal to Lienz, the first city we had passed through in quite a while. We made our first stop in Greifenburg to check out the LZ
3 Sep - Wed - The manager advised us that we didn't need to be at the airport two hours before our flight and he was right - the doors didn't even open until 0500 and our flight was at 0600. On the way to the airport we were fortunate to find a 24/7 gas station so we could fill up and return the Audi without additional charge.(BTW, we put about 1000 km on the rental car and only put 75 Euros worth of diesel in it - a little less than one full tank.)
We had a five-hour layover in Vienna and then a long flight to Chicago on Austrian Airlines with two meals and lots of beverages (including the complimentary bottle of water everyone received when boarding. We had a couple of hours to kill in Chicago, then another long flight to SeaTac - no food on domestic flights, of course, but at least it wasn't a full flight and we had three seats to ourselves. By the time we got home, we had been travelling just about 24 hours. But it was still a great trip!